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A tour of the Golden Horn:Istanbul's new historical and religious walkway

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»he Golden Horn, so named because of the shape of the channel and the reflec- tions on the water of the magnificent ,;^sunsets seen from its shores, is a five mile long inlet on the European side of the city. The ' 1,1 Source of the channel is two streams known during its pristine days as the "Sweet Waters of Europe.”

Since the founding of Byzantium by Byzas the Megarian in 667 B.C., the Golden Horn with its green slopes was enjoyed by the ancient Greeks and later, when the city was renamed Constantinople in honor of Constantine the Great who dedicated the city as the new capi­ tal of the Roman Empire in 330 A.D., it became the playground forthe Romans and the Byzantines.

The conquest of Constantinople in 1453 by the Ottoman Turks certainly did not diminish the attraction of this historic waterway. On the contrary, Sultan Mehmet II, the conqueror of Constantinople, issued a royal decree to protect its natural state. Residents of the imperial c ity - now Istanbul—including the sultan’s family, enjoyed its natural beauty up to the 20th cen­ tury. Stately royal gardens and public parks also lines its shores.

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It was not until the 1850’s during the Cri­ mean War that the pollution of the Golden Horn

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the Golden Horn, however, began in the early

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1950’s with industrialization. Currently, 60 per­

cent of Turkish industry is located in Istanbul or

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Like the lifting of a mist, the cleanup and

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beautification project of the historic Golden Horn undertaken by Istanbul’s Mayor Bedrettin Dalan in the last three years has uncovered the enchantment of Istanbul’s glorious past. After the demolition of several thousand dilapi­ dated buildings, it is now possible to stroll with a few minor detours through the new parks along the Golden Horn’s shore from the famous Galata Bridge, near the Bosphorus, to Eyüp on its upper shore. A stroll along the south shore below the seven hills of the ancient city is a walk through history. From the Galata Bridge to Eyüp on the upper shore, many of the historic sites as well as the religious sanctuaries of the three major faiths of the Middle East have been brought to view for the first time in ages. The history and religious significance of this area is a touristic potential that has yet to be realized.

Stretches of the ancient city walls dating back to the era of Constantine the Great can be seen while the domes and minarets of some of the world’s most spectacular mosques dazzle on the horizon. The new walkway passes the oldest mosque in Istanbul, the sea gates of Cibali and Aya, the only gates remaining of the Golden Horn walls the area where Crusaders of the Fourth Crusade in 1204 stormed the defense walls from their ships and wrestled control of the imperial city from the Byzantines. Further along is the resi­ dence of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate.

One should also leave the walkway along the waterfront and wander through the color­ ful neighborhood of Fenerto visit the church of St. Mary of the Mongols, the only Byzantine sanctuary remaining of the Greek Orthodox Church since before the Turkish conquest of the city in 1453. Continuing from Fener near the waterfront is the beautiful and unique church of Gothic cast iron, St. Stephen of the Bulgars. A number of Jewish synagogues and other lesser known old mosques and churches are also along the walkway.

Nearby is Balat, the old Jewish quarter and one of the few neighborhoods in Istanbul reminiscent of the Ottoman era. The 14th cen­ tury Synagogue of Ahrida-the only syn­ agogue in use since before the Turkish conquest-is located here. From the shore a stroller can see the remains of the Palace of Blachernae on the sixth hill, the last residence of the Byzantine emperors. After the junction where the land walls of the ancient city meet the sea walls is the neighborhood of Eyüp, the third holiest site in Islam after Mecca and Jerusalem.

Return to the Galata Bridge is best done by boat to get a panoramic view of the magnifi­ cent Ottoman and Byzantine monuments tow­ ering in the skyline.

As witnessed on this historical and reli­ gious walkway, the Golden Horn cleanup is more than an environmental project for Istan­ bul, the only city in the world cradling two con­ tinents. While resolving the urban problems of the 20th century, it is the beginning of a con­ temporary renaissance reflecting light on the city’s once glorious past as the crossroads of the ancient world and the capital of the three empires.

1. The Topkapi Palace Museum

2. The Ayasofya Museum (St Sophia)

3. Yeni Cami 4. The Spice Market 5. Rüstempaşa Mosque

6. Byzantine tower - the only remaining defense

tower of the sea walls. It was used as a prison by both the Byzantines and the Ottomans

7. Ahi Çelebi Camii, built in ? 500's

8. Istanbul Chamber of Commerce

9. Kantarcılar Camii, built during the reign of Sul­

tan Ahmet II.

10. Süleymaniye Camii

11. İstanbul Müftülüğü - formerly the last adminis­

trative headquarters of the Janissaries.

12. Kazancılar Camii, built in 1475.

1 3 . Yavuz Ersinan or Sağrıcılar C a m ii-// was

founded in 1455 and is probably the oldest mosque in Istanbul

14. Church of the Pantocrator (Zeyrek Camii) - It

was the mortuary for several Byzantine emper­ ors and their families.

15. Fatih Camii - Mosque of Sultan Mehmet II. Built

on the site of the church of Holy Apostles and was also believed to be the burial place of Constantine the Great and Justinian.

16. Gate of Cibali

17. Küçük Mustafa Paşa Hamamı -o n e of the old­

est Turkish baths still in use. Built before 1512

18. Gül Camii -originally Byzantine church of St.

Theodosia.

19. Church of St. Nicholas 20. Aya Kapı (Holy gate)

21. Havuzlu Hamam - Turkish baths from the 16th

century, not in use

22. Sultan Selim Camii - Mosque of Sultan Selim I.

Completed in 1522

23.Greek Orthodox Patriarchate - built in the 17th

century

24.Greek Lycee of the Fener - the school building

was constructed in 1881 but the institution dates back before the Turkish conquest

25.Church of St. Mary of the Mongols - dates

back to the 13the century. The only Byzantine sanctuary which remains from the Orthodox Church

26. Metochion of Jerusalem

2 7. Churchof PanaghiaPanamithiasfS/ Mary the

Consoler) - served as the Patriarchal Church from 1586 to 1596

28.The Church of Cast Iro n -S / Stephen of the

Bulgars.

29.Metochion of Mt. Sinai- the most impressive

surviving example of the ancient mansions of the Fener.

30.Synagogue of Ahrida - the only synagogue

being used since before the Turkish conquest

3 1 . Church of Surp Reşdagabet-Armenian

church, dates back to 162$

32. Ferruh Kethüda Camii -à srhaîimosqüêbyit'ie1

great architect Sinan

33. Church of St. Demetrius Kanabu - present /:

building dates to 1730. Earlier church structure - served as the Patriarchal Church from 1597 to-- 1601.

34. Atik Mustafa Paşa Camii - originally a Byzan

tine Church of the 9th century

35. Holy Spring of Blachernae - one of the most

popular holy places during the Byzantine and ' late Roman era.

36. İvaz Efendi C am ii-a very attractive mosque

built in late 16th century

37. Blachernae Palace - the last official residence

of the Byzantine emperors

38. Where land and sea walls meet 39. Eyüp Sultan Mosque

40. Pierre Loti Coffee House

Note: Please see Guide to Istanbul section for

more information. “Strolling through Istanbul" is a detailed guide to the city and available in the hotel book store.

Kişisel Arşivlerde Istanbul Belleği Taha Toros Arşivi

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