TEKSTİL VE MÜHENDİS (Journal of Textiles and Engineer)
http://www.tekstilvemuhendis.org.tr
A Study on The Fibre Parameters of Cotton Quality and Processability Evaluation
Pamuk Lifi Parametrelerinin v e İşlenebilirliğinin Değerlendirilmesi Üzerine Bir Araştırma
G. B. Tesema1, K. Subramanian2
1Department of Production Engineering, Universität Bremen, Germany.
2Department of Textile Technology, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore, India.
Online Erişime Açıldığı Tarih (Available online):1 Ekim 2018 (1 October 2018)
Bu makaleye atıf yapmak için (To cite this article):
G. B. TESEMA, K. SUBRAMANIAN (2018): A Study on The Fibre Parameters of Cotton Quality and Processability Evaluation
,
Tekstil ve Mühendis, 25: 111, 182-188.For online version of the article: https://doi.org/10.7216/1300759920182511101
Sorumlu Yazara ait Orcid Numarası (Corresponding Author’s Orcid Number) : https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4615-5684
Gönde Kabul ABST evalua these t the com the stu overall elonga the co comm Key wo
ÖZET
“FQI”
işleneb çalışm ilişkini pamuk Anaht
* Soru DOI: 1
Journal of Tex
A STU
erilme Tarihi / Tarihi / Accep TRACT: Curre
ate the techno two widely us mmercial cott udy, experime l evaluation o ation property ombination of ercial bales.
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in önemini be k kalitesini ve tar Kelimeler:
umlu Yazar/C 10.7216/1300
xtiles and Engineer
UDY ON T
/ Received: 15 pted: 12.07.20 ently, the texti ological value ed cotton cha tons. I this stu ents were done of the cotton y is critically i
f HVI and CC
fication metho
PAMUK DE
e, tekstil endü iki temel tica i vermek için
kalitesi ve iş elirlemek üze
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THE FIB PRO
5.12.2017 018
ile industry is es of samples racterization t udy a modified
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mainly using t of commerc tests as they s d fiber quality e importance
rocessability.
predict the qu ws us to pred
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RAMETRE NDİRİLME
DP-90 pamuk me yöntemini k
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Cilt (Vol): 25 No SAYFA 18
AMETER BILITY E
1Departmen t of Textile Tech
the two basic cial DP-90 co eem to be insu y index (MFQ
of the associa The results o uality and proc dict quite acc
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ELERİNİN ESİ ÜZERİ
k genotiplerini kullanmaktad itiyle bu iki y ğerlendirilmes apılmıştır. Çal
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o: 111 82
RS OF CO VALUAT
nt of Producti hnology, Kum
commercial q otton genotype ufficient to gi QI) is formulat ation between obtained from cessability of curately techn
HVI, CCS
N VE İŞLEN İNE BİR A
in örneklerini dır. Son yıllard
aygın yöntem sinde pamuk
lışmadan elde göstermiştir.
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OTTON Q TION
on Engineerin maraguru Colleg
quantification es. Of late, re ve quality and ed for the stud tenacity and m the study de cotton as wel nological valu
NEBİLİRL ARAŞTIRM
in teknolojik da, araştırmac m üzerine için
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Makalesi /
QUALITY
G K. SUB
ng, Universitä ge of Technolog
n methods nam esearchers we
d processabili died commerc
elongation o emonstrated t ll. The result ues of cotton
LİĞİNİN MA
değerlerini öl cılar, ticari pa araştırmalar s ukavemeti ve çlar pamuk li
4615-5684
ve Mühendis
Research A
Y AND
G. B. TESE BRAMANI
t Bremen, Ger gy, Coimbatore
mely, SCI and ere investigati ity information cial DP-90 co f cotton fibres that the cotto
s obtained sho fiber propert
lçmek için “S amukların kal sürdürülmekte
uzaması ara ifi uzama öze
Article
EMA
1IAN
*2rmany.
e, India.
FQI to ing that n about tton. In s in the on fibre ow that ties for
SCI” ve itesi ve edir. Bu asındaki elliğinin
1. IN
Determ interes that th the ch that m textile of text 100%.
2001 w textile owned produc intensi opport this se It is im cotton of vari and e sustain farms fibres they re The cu by Heq era co proces task.
develo techno cotton challen modifi predict cultiva opport to all p existin perfect tools w creatio param inform The pr index inform distinc given r variety within conditi variety fibre p
Journal of Tex A Study o Quality an
TRODUCT
mining the te sting field of
e quality of fi haracteristics o many investors
s in the devel tile factories i
The number was 10 (Gover
factories has d textile factor ction activiti ive in natur tunities. So, o
ctor in settling mportant to no breeders hav ieties of cotto merging mar nable efforts
in Africa hav are they goin eceive by such urrent challeng
quet, E. F. and tton breeders ssability of th
The challenge oping countri ologies). It is breeders of d nges; they wo ication of cott
ting the tech ation and prod tunity to the sm players of cot ng quantificat
tly explained within cotton on of single in eters works a mation to the o
rimary objecti value which mation, which ctions regardin
region, Gonda y cultivated i n-variety vari
ions and ultim y for the new properties with
xtiles and Engineer n the Fibre Para nd Processability
TION
echnological textile researc inal yarn is lar of raw cotton s have shown loping countri in Ethiopia al r of textile fa rnment owned s gone to 29 ( ries officially
es). Since t e, it can pr one can easily g the people in ote and under ve to consciou on (raw materi rkets of the with their c ve to clearly ng to cultivate
h cultivation.
ges of cotton d his coworke are facing th he raw materia es will be tou ies (who la s worth to m developing co ould still rema ton cultivators hnological va
duction of qu mall and large tton value cha
tion methods d or are not w
scientists/tec ndex value by as a practical overall quality ive of this rese can provide can be used ng cotton gro ar, Ethiopia. C in different a
iability culti mately suppor cultivators tha hin-variety.
ameters of Cott y Evaluation
value of co ch. This is b rgely influenc n [1]. Nowada interest to inv ies. In recent lone is increa actories in Eth
d). Now in 20 (by the inclus registered and the textile in rovide a lot y understand t
n their own lo rstand that the usly work to b ial) that can s
globe. To cultivators, sm
understand th e and the ultim
breeders were er [2]. They po he challenges al which is th ugher for the c ack modern mention here ountries are s ain as the act s that could ha alue of cotton uality cotton c
e scale farmer ain as a whole s for cotton widely recogn
hnologists/res combining se l method in p
evaluation of earch work is precise and
to make pra owing in diffe Comparison o areas would h ivated in d rt the possibili at can exhibit
on
otton fibre is ecause of the ed (up to 80%
ays, it is obse vest in the fiel years, the num ased by more
hiopia in the 017, the numb sion of 19 pri d performing ndustry is l of employm the importanc ocal places.
e local (Ethiop breed high qu
atisfy the exis continue thro mall scale se he types of co mate benefits e already repo ointed out tha
of predicting he most impo
cotton breeder cotton bree that even tho subjected to m tive players in
ave a potentia n. Therefore, can provide b rs in particular e. Even though
quality are nized as effec search circles everal fibre qu providing rela f cotton.
the creation o accurate prac actically impo erent places o f the same gen help to assess different grow
ity to breed a less variabili
Cilt (Vol): 25 No: 11 SAYFA 183
s an e fact
%) by erved ld of mber than year ber of ivate their labor ment ce of
pian) uality sting ough ector otton will orted at our g the ortant ers of eding ough many n the al for , the better r and h the not ctive , the uality ative of an ctical ortant f the netic s the wing new ity of
Trad lengt cotto (FQI came incor form al., p meas
𝐹𝑄
FS i uppe FF i with (SCI indic The deter influ regre
SCI =
Whe FS is mean finen yello stren use note param param proc the i and breed by H fiber break resul break proc indiv and mach wher In ri then rotor of th open elon critic Open
1
ditionally, onl th and finene on fibres by th I) or its varia e to be app rporated the mula to determ
provided a ne surements [5]
𝐼
is the fibre bu er half mean
s fibre finene h the wide ap
I) quantificati ces used to de SCI method rmines cotton uence quality.
ession analysi
-414.67 + 2.9FS +
ere:
s the fibre bun n length (inc ness (micron owness. N.B. H ngth (FS) by th
“cN/tex” whi that both m meter, which meter to pre essability of y mportance of
weaving per ders simply ig H. Benzina and r’s work-to-br kage. Stronge lts in better w kage during p essing the str vidual fibers o blades of b hinery acts o reas carding m ing frame, th
get twisted r spinning onl he rotor to join n end yarn.
gation charac cally importa ning, Carding
y few fibre p ess have been he cotton class ants, proposed plicable in t major fibre mine the qualit ew formula o
.
undle tensile length (mm), ss (micronaire pplication of ion method w etermine the t d for classing
n fiber prop The SCI met s:
49.17UHML + 4.74
ndle strength ch), UI is un naire), Rd is HVI instrume he unit of“g/te ich is equival methods fail h is elongatio
dict the cotto yarn in the wea
cotton fiber b rformances [ gnore the fibre d his co-worke reak is extre er fibers tend work-to- break processing [9]
ress is not ap or small tufts beaters in th on the tufts machinery par he fibres are
by the travel ly 1-5 fibres c n and get twis
Therefore, it cteristics asso ant at textil , Spinning and
Tekstil v G. B K. Sub
parameters, n n used to eva sers. Later, the d by Lord [3]
the scenario properties i ty value of lin of FQI which
strength (cN/
UI is uniform e). The popul
the spinning which is one technological g cotton by perties (physi
thod uses the
4UI – 9.32FF + 0.6
(cN/tex), UH niformity inde
s light refle ent used to rep
ex”. In this pa lent to “g/tex to report t on. Elongatio on fibre spin aving machine bundle elonga [7]. The reas e elongation p kers [8]. Repor emely importa to have high k which could ]. It is observ pplied to bun of fibers. For he opening
in the order rts acts only i drafted to in ler to the req come to the hi sted by the cr t can be un ociated with le processes, d Weaving.
ve Mühendis B. Tesema bramanıan
namely: fibre aluate the qua e fibre quality and Ratnam [4]. Basica in a multipl nt cotton. Mu was based on
/tex), UHML mity index (%
larity of HVI g consistency e of the com value of cotto using HVI s cal attributes e following m
65Rd + 0.36(+b)
ML is the upp ex (%), FF i ectance and
port the fibre aper it is prefe x”. It is impo
the importan on is an im nnability as w e. Backe et al., s ation on yarn son why the property is ex rtedly, the ind ant to preven her elongation
d lead to lowe ved that durin ndle of fibers r example, the and cleaning of few mill in few tens of ndividual fibr quired yarn co ighly rotating ranking action
nderstood th fibre tenac namely: G
grade, ality of y index et al., ally, it icative urthy et n HVI
(1) is the
%) and comes index mposite on [6].
system s) that multiple
(2)
per half is fibre +b is tensile erred to rtant to nt fibre mportant well as showed quality cotton plained dividual nt fiber n which er fiber ng fiber but to e spikes g stage ligrams f fibres.
res and ount. In section n of the hat the ity are Ginning,
Consid fiber p quality of fib efficie combin preclud therefo contrib toward high v toward textile with c Nowad and ro extent of op consid which behavi tensile fig. 1a front r as the at the
To =
Where angle a
Tw =
Where coeffic the trav To = T
Journal of Tex
derable emph property com y [10], wherea er properties ncy has bee nation neede de attainmen ore be cons butions being d product qua volume textile d correlating fibers with certain elemen
days because otor spinning on the absor perating effi deration of t are energy iors reflecting e properties. In a) (i.e., the zo rollers of the d
spinning tens lappet guide T
Ts e
e, = the yarn at the entranc
= TR e
e, TW = cient of frictio
veler (see Fig TR + mR22
xtiles and Engineer
hasis has bee mbinations wi as the need fo required ma en recognized ed to meet o nt of the ot
sidered as b g made towa
lity. Before th e testing instru the breaking mechanical nts of produc
of the dynam g), whose eff
rption of ener ciency, shou the elastic pr absorptive in g these prop n the yarn form one between t
drafting syste sion Ts, and i To, by the foll
n lappet guide e and exit of
the winding on; = the an g. 1b).
en given to c ith end-use r or determining aintaining ma d only recen one of these ther. Fibre p being dual ard processin he invention o ument, many
g strength an processing c ct quality [11 mic nature of s ficiencies dep rgy to maintai uld mandato roperties of n nature, and perties. Exam mation zone o the pigtail lap em.), the yarn s related to th lowing equati
e coefficient o f the lappet gu
g tension; ngle at the en
Figure
correlating co requirements g the combinat aximum opera ntly. The pr e objectives
properties sh functional, ng efficiency
of current fast efforts were m nd elongation haracteristics , 12, 13 and spinning (e.g.
pend to a ce in specified le orily lead to
fibers and y d to those ten mple: Spun y
of ring frame ppet guide and
tension is ter he balloon ten
on:
of friction; = uide (Fig. 1a)
= yarn-trav ntrance and ex
1. Yarn tension
Cilt (Vol): 25 No: 111 SAYFA 184
otton and tions ating roper may hould with and t and made n of and 14].
ring ertain evels o a yarns, ensile yarns (See d the rmed nsion
( 3 )
= the
;
(4) veler xit of
(5)
Whe mass velo Ts e Duri centr F, wh F=
C =
Whe veloc
( =
C = 4 Ther quad spee 100 failu gene obse param the r there elon In ro centr the p spee give main follo
ns at the lappet g
1
ere, TR = the s per unit le
city of the yar
= TR + mR ing winding a
rifugal force, here
C
= MR
r2 ere, M = travcity of the tra
= 2N
t), wh
42 Nt 2MRr refore, with rin dratic function
d, for exampl
% cotton), th ure would be erated thermal erved that th
meters that de ring and thus t efore be adju gation propert otor spinning, rifugal force a product of the d and rotor di
optimal yarn ntain optimal owing relation
guide and ring-
tension of ya ength; R = r rn. We have, R22
as the travele C, on the trav
eler mass; Rr veler
here
, Nt = trav rng spinning, t n of the spind le is greater th he possibility
considered d l heat. From t e mass of t etermine the d the yarn tensio usted exactly
ties and to the the tension i and it is there e rotor speed ameter of 70,0 n tension wit
yarn tension ship may be u
traveler
Tekstil v
arn at the rin radius of cur
er is pulled a veler will lead
r = radius of
aveler r.p.m. W
the spinning t dle (traveler) than 20,000rp y of traveler b
due to lack the above eq the traveler degree of fricti
on. The mass to the yarn e spindle speed in the yarn is efore proportio
and diameter 000 rpm and 4 th minimal e n with increas
used:
ve Mühendis
ng and travele rvature; = a
around the ri d to the frictio
f the ring; a
We have,
ension increas speed. If the pm (when pro
burning or co of resistance uation (9), it is also one ion of the trav
of the travele count and te d.
largely the re onal to the sq r. Reportedly 40 mm, respe ends down [1
sed rotor spe er; m =
angular
(6) ng, the on drag,
(7) (8) angular
(9) ses as a
spindle cessing omplete to the can be of the veler on er must enacity-
esult of quare of a rotor ctively, 15]. To eed, the
n = 3.2 Where If the decrea becaus cause multip require in the thread to stre is in th [16]. R strengt In this (CCS additio actual import actual/
proper In ord differe possib the sam amoun be use
Table 1 Cotton Abde
MIC (M Strength Max. (M
Table 2 Cotton
Alma
Journal of Tex A Study o Quality an
2 x 106/D e, n = rotor sp
rotor speed ase in breakin
se of the incr a permanent ple breakages i
ed in yarns is weaving and s. These imply ngth, as evalu he majority of Reportedly, br
th and elongat s work, in add of TEXTEC on to the usu (absolute) tant to note /absolute me rties [18].
der to compar ent areas, wor
le to take acc me variety. H nt of energy n
d.
1. Values of the Cultivating Ar rafe
Micronaire readin h), FE (Fiber Elon Maximum), S.E (s
2. Values of the Cultivating Ar aehal
xtiles and Engineer n the Fibre Para nd Processability
eed; D = diam is increased ng elongation ease in spinn strain in the y in the weavin referred as the d finishing o y functional u uating media, f cases the onl reeders are ad tion [17].
dition to HVI, CHNO, Germ ual relative te strength-elon e that CCS easurement
re cotton of rk of rupture s count of the v Hence, specific needed to brea
Abderafe regio ea Fibre Prope MIC UHM UI SFI FS FE Rd +b ng), UHML (Upp
ngation), Rd% (R standard Error), R
e Almaehal regi ea Fibre Prop MIC UHML
UI SFI FS FE Rd +b
ameters of Cott y Evaluation
meter of the ro beyond the n of the yarn ning tension. T yarn which co ng shed. The a
e per cent take operations, an use of yarn ela even though ly one measur dvised to give
, the Cotton C many) was als sting method gation testin S applies th
of bundle
the same va should be eva various elong
c work of rup ak a sample of
on fiber properti erties
ML
per Half Mean l Reflectance), +b ( R (Range), C.V%
ion fiber proper perties
L
on
otor
optimal level n will be res This in turn w ould be result amount of “str e-up or contra nd “sewability
asticity, in add the latter pro red and consid e attention to
Classifying Sy so used. CC
of HVI, use ng method.
he principle tensile-elong
riety cultivate aluated so tha
ation properti pture, which i f unit mass, sh
ies and their sta
M S. D
4.10 0.37 29.56 0.74 86.02 0.77 6.47 0.54 30.26 1.24 6.53 0.34 84.75 1.27 9.69 0.59 length), UI (Unif (yellowness), M ( (Coefficient of V
rties and their st S
M S. D
3.88 0.06 27.24 0.68 81.99 1.68 10.73 2.09 26.79 1.68 5.75 0.50 78.07 1.59 12.28 0.31
Cilt (Vol): 25 No: 11 SAYFA 185
(10)
l, the sulted would ted in retch”
action y” of dition operty dered o both
ystem CS, in es the It is es of gation
ed in at it is ies of is the hould
The meas whic fibre index cm), 2. M In th techn culti expe tenac samp Ethio and C Exp geno were comm the f param show quan show quan
atistical parame Statistical Para
Min. M
3.51 4.
28.31 30 84.80 87 5.80 7.
28.10 32 6.00 7.
83.00 87 8.40 10 formity Index), (Mean), S.D (Sta Variation)
tatistical param Statistical Param
Min. M
3.77 3.
26.39 28 79.30 84 7.30 14 24.10 29 5.00 6.
75.30 79 11.60 12
1
currently use surements an ch is the mai es. Thus, in t x (MFQI) wh is formulated MATERIALS he study, the nological val vation areas eriment of th
city and elon ples collected opia. For all e CCS laborator eriment 1: S otypes in the G e selected for
mercially use fiber properti meters from t ws their tec ntification me ws their techn ntification met
eters meters Max. S.E.
57 0.12 0.51 0.23 7.50 0.24 30 0.17 2.10 0.39 00 0.11 7.00 0.40 0.50 0.19 SFI (Short Fiber andard Deviation)
meters meters Max. S.E.
97 0.02 8.08 0.22 4.30 0.53 4.10 0.66 9.10 0.53 70 0.16 9.50 0.50 2.80 0.10
ed fiber qualit nd doesn’t co
in contributor this research hich considers d.
and METHO e first experim lues of the
of Gondar e study was ngation prope d from the wh experiments s ry testing instr Sixty samples
Gondar region comparison o ed quantificat es values of he three cultiv chnological v thods, ranked nological valu
thod.
R C.V%
1.06 9.02 2.20 2.50 2.70 0.90 1.50 8.35 4.00 4.10 1.00 5.21 4.00 1.50 2.10 6.09 r Index), FS (Fib ), Min. (Minimum
R C.V%
0.20 1.55 1.69 2.50 5.00 2.05 6.80 19.48 5.00 6.27 1.70 8.70 4.20 2.04 1.20 2.52
Tekstil v G. B K. Sub
ty index is ba onsider the r to the work
work the mo s the CCS wo
ODS
ment is done cotton obtain
region, Eth done to asse erties of the hole cultivatio samples were truments.
s from comm n of Almahal, of their techno tion methods.
the cotton a vation region values as d d (R) in ascen ues as measur
%
ber m),
%
ve Mühendis B. Tesema bramanıan
ased mainly o elongation p k-to-break of odified fibre ork of rupture
e for compari ned from the hiopia. The ess the influe
commercial on areas of G
tested by bo
mercial DP-90 Kokyt and Ab logical values . Tables 1-3, along with sta s in Gondar. T determined b nding order. T red by the m
on HVI property f cotton quality e (cN
ing the e three second ence of cotton Gondar, th HVI
cotton bderafe s by the shows atistical Table 4 by the Table 5 modified
Table 3 Cotton
Koky
Table 4 Cotto
Abde Alme Koky
Exper betwee DP-90 compa 5 of C show respec Figure by the
Figu
Journal of Tex
3. Values of the Cultivating Ar
yt
4. The technolog on Cultivating A
rafe ehal yt
riment 2: It is en tenacity an 0 cotton genot
arison. The sa CCS instrumen
tenacity-elon tively, as me e 4 shows the
absolute/actu
ure 2. Elongatio
Figure 3. Elon
xtiles and Engineer
Kokyt region f ea Fibre Prop
MIC UHML
UI SFI FS FE Rd +b gical values of s Area Fibre Prop
MIC U
4.10 2 3.88 2 4.27 2
s done to ass nd elongation types in the G amples were te nts, with 50 re ngation relat
easured by th tenacity-elon ual method of
on vs. HVI tena
ngation vs. CC
fiber properties perties
L
studied cotton fi perties Cultivate
UHML UI
29.56 86.0 27.24 81.9 29.25 83.7
ess the influe n, 75 samples Gondar region
ested on HVI eplications. T tionships of
he relative m ngation relatio
testing.
acity. DP-90 com
S relative HVI
and their statist S
M S. D
4.27 0.20 29.25 0.63 83.70 2.73 7.55 0.73 27.46 0.81 6.67 0.49 83.19 4.94 9.44 0.16 fibre properties d
ed in the Three SFI F 02 6.47 3 99 10.73 2 70 7.55 2
ence of associ s from comme n were selecte
-1000 and Ve The figures 2 a HVI and method of te onship as mea
mmercial variet
mode DP-90
Cilt (Vol): 25 No: 111 SAYFA 186 tical parameters Statistical Param
Min. M
4.05 4
28.06 3 78.30 8
6.70 9
26.30 2
6.20 7
73.80 8
9.10 9
determined by c Areas
FS FE
30.26 6.53 26.79 5.75 27.46 6.67
iation ercial ed for ersion and 3 CCS, sting.
asured
ties
3. RE A M Fibe equa one follo index from comb shou meas pract shou param over It ha and
1
s meters
Max. S.E.
4.55 0.06 30.46 0.20 86.60 0.86 9.10 0.23 28.80 0.26 7.80 0.16 87.00 1.56 9.60 0.05 commercial quan
Rd +b
84.75 9.6 78.07 12.
83.19 9.4 Me
Figure
ESULTS and Modified Cotto
r Quality Ind ations, in whic
integrated in owing conside
x should be s m prior knowle bination of b uld be used;
sured ones, so tice; (iv) the uld be low;
meters used r different spin as shown that
FQI and also
R C.V
0.50 4.6 2.20 2.1 8.30 3.2 2.40 9.6 2.50 2.9 1.60 7.3 13.20 5.9 0.50 1.6 ntification meth The calcul by Quantif SCI R 69 158.2 3
28 123.3 44 135.9 2 ean 139.1
4. Elongation v
d DISCUSSIO n Fiber Qualit dex (FQI) is ch the cotton f ndex. It was
erations: (i) t selected from edge of their i both; (ii) the (iii) the pr o as to ensure error of mea and (v) the in constructin nning conditio (Fig. 2-4) the in other quan
Tekstil v
V%
68 15 26 67 95 35 94 69
hods, ranked (R) lated Technolog fication Method R FQI R 3 187.7 3 1 154.2 1 2 157.4 2
166.4
vs. Actual Tena
ONS ty Index s one of the
fiber propertie introduced o the fiber pro m the theoretic impact on yar
minimum nu roperties shou e the applicab asurement of form of the ng the index ons.
e positive cont ntification me
ve Mühendis
) in ascending o gical values ds
acity DP-90
ad hoe curv es are combin on the basis operties used cal considerat rn strength, or
umber of pro uld be the bility of this in
the fiber pro e function an should be in tributors in bo ethods which
order.
vilinear ned into of the in the tions or r from a operties usually ndex in operties nd any nvariant oth SCI are not
mentio evalua empha be con of spi varian is quite strengt Thus, the CC
𝑀𝐹𝑄
UHML HVI u MICH
to-brea Accord areas s the sta Egypti Ta Cultiv
Table 6 Cotto
U Even cultiva lack o proper tenacit work w relatio break found CCS inferre and el Fig.
elonga same c The to load re relatio
Journal of Tex A Study o Quality an
oned in this p ate the techn asis has not gi nsidered durin inning machi ce of HVI bu e useful as a c th maximizati
the modified CS work of rup
𝐼
LH is the HV niformity inde is the HVI fib ak (cN cm).
dingly, the te studied are pr andard US U ian Giza 87.
able 5. Quality I vating Areas
Abderafe Almehal Kokyt 6. Quality Inde
n Varieties US PIMA Giza 87 US UPLAND
then, due at ating cotton w of interest to rty due to its ty. It is intere which showed nship betwee (r2 = 0.006) that there is a bundle tenac ed from Fig. 3 longation-at-b
4 (relationsh ation-at-break commercial va otal work-to-b equired to br nship for any
xtiles and Engineer n the Fibre Para nd Processability
paper are the nological perf iven to the elo ng the speed a inery parts.
undle breaking criterion for ba ion [20].
fibre quality pture (cN*cm
VI upper half ex (%), SFIH i ber fineness (m
echnological v resented (Tab UPLAND and
Index values fo Cot FQI 187.7 154.2 157.4 ex values for the
C FQ 479.
472.
170.
ttention and with the best “E
o breed the s negative co
esting to obs d that, from F en HVI bund for the comm a positive but city and elon 3 (relationship break (HVI/rel hip between (direct/absolu ariety DP-90.
break of the b reak and the
y bundle is r
ameters of Cott y Evaluation
main influen formance of ongation param
and striking a Reportedly, g elongations
ale selection a index (MFQI m), is presented
mean length is the HVI sho micronaire), W
values of cott ble 5 and 6) a d PIMA cotto
or the cotton in t tton Fiber Qual SCI 158.2 123.3 135.9 e US Upland, Pi Cotton Fiber Qu
I SC
.9 230
.2 228
.2 134
emphasis w Elongation”?
cotton with orrelation with
erve the resu Fig. 2, there i dle tenacity a mercial variety
also weak re ngation-at-bre p between CC lative mode),
CCS bund ute mode), (r2
bundle is a fu elongation be represented by
on
ntial paramete cotton [19].
meter which h action optimiz the between within a lay-d and yarn and f
I) which cons d below:
(mm), UIH i ort fiber index WRC is CCS w
ton from the and compared ons as well a
the three region lity Indexes
MFQI 97.2 39.4 66.3 ma & Egypt Gi ality Indexes
CI MFQ
0.4 287.8 .0 282.3 4.3 81.4 was not given
It is because o better elong h the HVI bu ult of this res
is a weak neg and elongatio y DP-90. But, lationship bet eak. This ca CS bundle ten (r2 = 0.091) dle tenacity
2 = 0.091)) fo
unction of bot efore rupture.
y a unique st
Cilt (Vol): 25 No: 11 SAYFA 187
ers to But, has to zation n-bale down fabric siders
(11) is the x (%), work-
three d with as the
ns
iza 87
QI
n for of the gation undle search gative on-at-
, it is tween an be nacity ) and and or the
th the This tress-
strain HVI prod corre elong elong total
Figu
4. C
Acco mod the Alm and valu The betw to th fibre cotto lowe short irreg draw leavi can elong the e Ack Auth Man Brem Inter valu Aust this r
1
n curve. Whi , the total w duct tenacity *
elation (R2 = gation and C gation and te work(energy
re 5. CCS W Elongatio
CONCLUSI
ording to all dified fibre qu
highest tech mehal.The resu
CCS data allo es of cotton fi weak negati ween bundle te he practices of e elongation on with impr er work-to-bre
t fibre conten gularity (due w frame) whic ing more thin
reasonably gation is to b evaluation of c nowledgemen hors are than nager Cotton/M men e.V. (FIB
rnational Stan able guidanc tauschdienst ( research study
ile the stress- work-to-break
* elongation. F 0.890) betw CS work-to-b nacity should ) required to b
ork-to-break v on for commerc
IONS
quantificatio uality index), t hnological v ults obtained s ows us to pred iber properties ive (HVI) or enacity and elo f ignoring for property. Rep oved fibre el eak with mor nt [9]. Short fi to floating fi h affects the q
and thick pla be concluded be considered
cotton fibre qu nts
nkful to Ax Member of the BRE) for allow ndard Cotton T
ce and sup (DAAD) for y.
Tekstil v G. B K. Sub
-strain curve k should be
Figure 5 show ween the HVI
break. Theref d result in an break the fibre
vs. product H cial DP-90
on methods u the cotton fro value followe show that the
dict quite accu s for commerc r weak posi ongation-at- b r cultivating th portedly, ign longation pro re fibre break fibres are also
ibres in the d quality of fina aces in the yar ed that the
while arrivin uality and pro
xel Drieling e Executive B wing testing Testing Labor pport; Deutsc providing fin
ve Mühendis B. Tesema bramanıan
is unavailabl proportional ws that there i I product ten fore, improvin
improvement es in the bund
HVI Tenacity
used (includi om the Abder ed by Koky
combination urately techno cial bales.
tive relation break should n
he cotton with noring of cult
operty could kage with inc the sources o drafting zone al textile prod rn body. There
fibre parame ng at the form
cessability.
(Dipl.-Ing.), Board of Faser
in the ICA B ratory and pro cher Akadem nancial assista
le from to the is good nacity * ng both t in the dle.
* HVI
ing our rafe has yt and of HVI ological
(CCS) not lead h better tivating lead to creased of draft of the ducts by efore, it eter of mula for
Senior rinstitut Bremen:
oviding mischer ance to
REFE 1. US
ch 2. He
ind Co 3. Lo Fi M 4. Ra
Ch So 5. M Qu 6. Ze Sp 7. Ba ya En In 8. Be
Ha Sc Jo 9. E.
Go co Co 10. He El Pr 11. M Jo 12. Or
Jo 13. Pl
“M Re 14. Vi pr 15. De
Sp do 16. Lo
Gr an M 56 17. M Co Ins
Journal of Tex
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