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TEKSTİL VE MÜHENDİS (Journal of Textiles and Engineer)

http://www.tekstilvemuhendis.org.tr

A Study on The Fibre Parameters of Cotton Quality and Processability Evaluation

Pamuk Lifi Parametrelerinin v e İşlenebilirliğinin Değerlendirilmesi Üzerine Bir Araştırma

G. B. Tesema1, K. Subramanian2

1Department of Production Engineering, Universität Bremen, Germany.

2Department of Textile Technology, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore, India.

Online Erişime Açıldığı Tarih (Available online):1 Ekim 2018 (1 October 2018)

Bu makaleye atıf yapmak için (To cite this article):

G. B. TESEMA, K. SUBRAMANIAN (2018): A Study on The Fibre Parameters of Cotton Quality and Processability Evaluation

,

Tekstil ve Mühendis, 25: 111, 182-188.

For online version of the article: https://doi.org/10.7216/1300759920182511101

Sorumlu Yazara ait Orcid Numarası (Corresponding Author’s Orcid Number) : https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4615-5684

(2)

Gönde Kabul ABST evalua these t the com the stu overall elonga the co comm Key wo

ÖZET

“FQI”

işleneb çalışm ilişkini pamuk Anaht

* Soru DOI: 1

Journal of Tex

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erilme Tarihi / Tarihi / Accep TRACT: Curre

ate the techno two widely us mmercial cott udy, experime l evaluation o ation property ombination of ercial bales.

ords: Quantifi

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in önemini be k kalitesini ve tar Kelimeler:

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xtiles and Engineer

UDY ON T

/ Received: 15 pted: 12.07.20 ently, the texti ological value ed cotton cha tons. I this stu ents were done of the cotton y is critically i

f HVI and CC

fication metho

PAMUK DE

e, tekstil endü iki temel tica i vermek için

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ile industry is es of samples racterization t udy a modified

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mainly using t of commerc tests as they s d fiber quality e importance

rocessability.

predict the qu ws us to pred

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RAMETRE NDİRİLME

DP-90 pamuk me yöntemini k

ündükleri tespi nin genel değ bir çalışma ya için kritik öne ite, İşlenebilir

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ekstilvemuhen

Cilt (Vol): 25 No SAYFA 18

AMETER BILITY E

1Departmen t of Textile Tech

the two basic cial DP-90 co eem to be insu y index (MFQ

of the associa The results o uality and proc dict quite acc

Elongation, H

ELERİNİN ESİ ÜZERİ

k genotiplerini kullanmaktad itiyle bu iki y ğerlendirilmes apılmıştır. Çal

em taşıdığını g rlik, Uzama, H

@kct.ac.in http ndis.org.tr

o: 111 82

RS OF CO VALUAT

nt of Producti hnology, Kum

commercial q otton genotype ufficient to gi QI) is formulat ation between obtained from cessability of curately techn

HVI, CCS

N VE İŞLEN İNE BİR A

in örneklerini dır. Son yıllard

aygın yöntem sinde pamuk

lışmadan elde göstermiştir.

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Araştırma M

OTTON Q TION

on Engineerin maraguru Colleg

quantification es. Of late, re ve quality and ed for the stud tenacity and m the study de cotton as wel nological valu

NEBİLİRL ARAŞTIRM

in teknolojik da, araştırmac m üzerine için

elyafının mu e edilen sonuç

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Tekstil v

Makalesi /

QUALITY

G K. SUB

ng, Universitä ge of Technolog

n methods nam esearchers we

d processabili died commerc

elongation o emonstrated t ll. The result ues of cotton

LİĞİNİN MA

değerlerini öl cılar, ticari pa araştırmalar s ukavemeti ve çlar pamuk li

4615-5684

ve Mühendis

Research A

Y AND

G. B. TESE BRAMANI

t Bremen, Ger gy, Coimbatore

mely, SCI and ere investigati ity information cial DP-90 co f cotton fibres that the cotto

s obtained sho fiber propert

lçmek için “S amukların kal sürdürülmekte

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Article

EMA

1

IAN

*2

rmany.

e, India.

FQI to ing that n about tton. In s in the on fibre ow that ties for

SCI” ve itesi ve edir. Bu asındaki elliğinin

(3)

1. IN

Determ interes that th the ch that m textile of text 100%.

2001 w textile owned produc intensi opport this se It is im cotton of vari and e sustain farms fibres they re The cu by Heq era co proces task.

develo techno cotton challen modifi predict cultiva opport to all p existin perfect tools w creatio param inform The pr index inform distinc given r variety within conditi variety fibre p

Journal of Tex A Study o Quality an

TRODUCT

mining the te sting field of

e quality of fi haracteristics o many investors

s in the devel tile factories i

The number was 10 (Gover

factories has d textile factor ction activiti ive in natur tunities. So, o

ctor in settling mportant to no breeders hav ieties of cotto merging mar nable efforts

in Africa hav are they goin eceive by such urrent challeng

quet, E. F. and tton breeders ssability of th

The challenge oping countri ologies). It is breeders of d nges; they wo ication of cott

ting the tech ation and prod tunity to the sm players of cot ng quantificat

tly explained within cotton on of single in eters works a mation to the o

rimary objecti value which mation, which ctions regardin

region, Gonda y cultivated i n-variety vari

ions and ultim y for the new properties with

xtiles and Engineer n the Fibre Para nd Processability

TION

echnological textile researc inal yarn is lar of raw cotton s have shown loping countri in Ethiopia al r of textile fa rnment owned s gone to 29 ( ries officially

es). Since t e, it can pr one can easily g the people in ote and under ve to consciou on (raw materi rkets of the with their c ve to clearly ng to cultivate

h cultivation.

ges of cotton d his coworke are facing th he raw materia es will be tou ies (who la s worth to m developing co ould still rema ton cultivators hnological va

duction of qu mall and large tton value cha

tion methods d or are not w

scientists/tec ndex value by as a practical overall quality ive of this rese can provide can be used ng cotton gro ar, Ethiopia. C in different a

iability culti mately suppor cultivators tha hin-variety.

ameters of Cott y Evaluation

value of co ch. This is b rgely influenc n [1]. Nowada interest to inv ies. In recent lone is increa actories in Eth

d). Now in 20 (by the inclus registered and the textile in rovide a lot y understand t

n their own lo rstand that the usly work to b ial) that can s

globe. To cultivators, sm

understand th e and the ultim

breeders were er [2]. They po he challenges al which is th ugher for the c ack modern mention here ountries are s ain as the act s that could ha alue of cotton uality cotton c

e scale farmer ain as a whole s for cotton widely recogn

hnologists/res combining se l method in p

evaluation of earch work is precise and

to make pra owing in diffe Comparison o areas would h ivated in d rt the possibili at can exhibit

on

otton fibre is ecause of the ed (up to 80%

ays, it is obse vest in the fiel years, the num ased by more

hiopia in the 017, the numb sion of 19 pri d performing ndustry is l of employm the importanc ocal places.

e local (Ethiop breed high qu

atisfy the exis continue thro mall scale se he types of co mate benefits e already repo ointed out tha

of predicting he most impo

cotton breeder cotton bree that even tho subjected to m tive players in

ave a potentia n. Therefore, can provide b rs in particular e. Even though

quality are nized as effec search circles everal fibre qu providing rela f cotton.

the creation o accurate prac actically impo erent places o f the same gen help to assess different grow

ity to breed a less variabili

Cilt (Vol): 25 No: 11 SAYFA 183

s an e fact

%) by erved ld of mber than year ber of ivate their labor ment ce of

pian) uality sting ough ector otton will orted at our g the ortant ers of eding ough many n the al for , the better r and h the not ctive , the uality ative of an ctical ortant f the netic s the wing new ity of

Trad lengt cotto (FQI came incor form al., p meas

𝐹𝑄

FS i uppe FF i with (SCI indic The deter influ regre

SCI =

Whe FS is mean finen yello stren use note param param proc the i and breed by H fiber break resul break proc indiv and mach wher In ri then rotor of th open elon critic Open

1

ditionally, onl th and finene on fibres by th I) or its varia e to be app rporated the mula to determ

provided a ne surements [5]

𝐼

is the fibre bu er half mean

s fibre finene h the wide ap

I) quantificati ces used to de SCI method rmines cotton uence quality.

ession analysi

-414.67 + 2.9FS +

ere:

s the fibre bun n length (inc ness (micron owness. N.B. H ngth (FS) by th

“cN/tex” whi that both m meter, which meter to pre essability of y mportance of

weaving per ders simply ig H. Benzina and r’s work-to-br kage. Stronge lts in better w kage during p essing the str vidual fibers o blades of b hinery acts o reas carding m ing frame, th

get twisted r spinning onl he rotor to join n end yarn.

gation charac cally importa ning, Carding

y few fibre p ess have been he cotton class ants, proposed plicable in t major fibre mine the qualit ew formula o

.

undle tensile length (mm), ss (micronaire pplication of ion method w etermine the t d for classing

n fiber prop The SCI met s:

49.17UHML + 4.74

ndle strength ch), UI is un naire), Rd is HVI instrume he unit of“g/te ich is equival methods fail h is elongatio

dict the cotto yarn in the wea

cotton fiber b rformances [ gnore the fibre d his co-worke reak is extre er fibers tend work-to- break processing [9]

ress is not ap or small tufts beaters in th on the tufts machinery par he fibres are

by the travel ly 1-5 fibres c n and get twis

Therefore, it cteristics asso ant at textil , Spinning and

Tekstil v G. B K. Sub

parameters, n n used to eva sers. Later, the d by Lord [3]

the scenario properties i ty value of lin of FQI which

strength (cN/

UI is uniform e). The popul

the spinning which is one technological g cotton by perties (physi

thod uses the

4UI – 9.32FF + 0.6

(cN/tex), UH niformity inde

s light refle ent used to rep

ex”. In this pa lent to “g/tex to report t on. Elongatio on fibre spin aving machine bundle elonga [7]. The reas e elongation p kers [8]. Repor emely importa to have high k which could ]. It is observ pplied to bun of fibers. For he opening

in the order rts acts only i drafted to in ler to the req come to the hi sted by the cr t can be un ociated with le processes, d Weaving.

ve Mühendis B. Tesema bramanıan

namely: fibre aluate the qua e fibre quality and Ratnam [4]. Basica in a multipl nt cotton. Mu was based on

/tex), UHML mity index (%

larity of HVI g consistency e of the com value of cotto using HVI s cal attributes e following m

65Rd + 0.36(+b)

ML is the upp ex (%), FF i ectance and

port the fibre aper it is prefe x”. It is impo

the importan on is an im nnability as w e. Backe et al., s ation on yarn son why the property is ex rtedly, the ind ant to preven her elongation

d lead to lowe ved that durin ndle of fibers r example, the and cleaning of few mill in few tens of ndividual fibr quired yarn co ighly rotating ranking action

nderstood th fibre tenac namely: G

grade, ality of y index et al., ally, it icative urthy et n HVI

(1) is the

%) and comes index mposite on [6].

system s) that multiple

(2)

per half is fibre +b is tensile erred to rtant to nt fibre mportant well as showed quality cotton plained dividual nt fiber n which er fiber ng fiber but to e spikes g stage ligrams f fibres.

res and ount. In section n of the hat the ity are Ginning,

(4)

Consid fiber p quality of fib efficie combin preclud therefo contrib toward high v toward textile with c Nowad and ro extent of op consid which behavi tensile fig. 1a front r as the at the

To =

Where angle a

Tw =

Where coeffic the trav To = T

Journal of Tex

derable emph property com y [10], wherea er properties ncy has bee nation neede de attainmen ore be cons butions being d product qua volume textile d correlating fibers with certain elemen

days because otor spinning on the absor perating effi deration of t are energy iors reflecting e properties. In a) (i.e., the zo rollers of the d

spinning tens lappet guide T

Ts e

e,  = the yarn at the entranc

= TR e



e, TW = cient of frictio

veler (see Fig TR + mR22

xtiles and Engineer

hasis has bee mbinations wi as the need fo required ma en recognized ed to meet o nt of the ot

sidered as b g made towa

lity. Before th e testing instru the breaking mechanical nts of produc

of the dynam g), whose eff

rption of ener ciency, shou the elastic pr absorptive in g these prop n the yarn form one between t

drafting syste sion Ts, and i To, by the foll

n lappet guide e and exit of

the winding on;  = the an g. 1b).

en given to c ith end-use r or determining aintaining ma d only recen one of these ther. Fibre p being dual ard processin he invention o ument, many

g strength an processing c ct quality [11 mic nature of s ficiencies dep rgy to maintai uld mandato roperties of n nature, and perties. Exam mation zone o the pigtail lap em.), the yarn s related to th lowing equati

e coefficient o f the lappet gu

g tension;  ngle at the en

Figure

correlating co requirements g the combinat aximum opera ntly. The pr e objectives

properties sh functional, ng efficiency

of current fast efforts were m nd elongation haracteristics , 12, 13 and spinning (e.g.

pend to a ce in specified le orily lead to

fibers and y d to those ten mple: Spun y

of ring frame ppet guide and

tension is ter he balloon ten

on:

of friction;  = uide (Fig. 1a)

= yarn-trav ntrance and ex

1. Yarn tension

Cilt (Vol): 25 No: 111 SAYFA 184

otton and tions ating roper may hould with and t and made n of and 14].

ring ertain evels o a yarns, ensile yarns (See d the rmed nsion

( 3 )

= the

;

(4) veler xit of

(5)

Whe mass velo Ts e Duri centr F, wh F= 

C =

Whe veloc

( =

C = 4 Ther quad spee 100 failu gene obse param the r there elon In ro centr the p spee give main follo

ns at the lappet g

1

ere, TR = the s per unit le

city of the yar

 = TR + mR ing winding a

rifugal force, here

C

= MR

r2 ere, M = trav

city of the tra

= 2N

t

), wh

42 Nt 2MRr refore, with rin dratic function

d, for exampl

% cotton), th ure would be erated thermal erved that th

meters that de ring and thus t efore be adju gation propert otor spinning, rifugal force a product of the d and rotor di

optimal yarn ntain optimal owing relation

guide and ring-

tension of ya ength; R = r rn. We have, R22

as the travele C, on the trav

eler mass; Rr veler

here

, Nt = trav r

ng spinning, t n of the spind le is greater th he possibility

considered d l heat. From t e mass of t etermine the d the yarn tensio usted exactly

ties and to the the tension i and it is there e rotor speed ameter of 70,0 n tension wit

yarn tension ship may be u

traveler

Tekstil v

arn at the rin radius of cur

er is pulled a veler will lead

r = radius of

aveler r.p.m. W

the spinning t dle (traveler) than 20,000rp y of traveler b

due to lack the above eq the traveler degree of fricti

on. The mass to the yarn e spindle speed in the yarn is efore proportio

and diameter 000 rpm and 4 th minimal e n with increas

used:

ve Mühendis

ng and travele rvature; = a

around the ri d to the frictio

f the ring;  a

We have,

ension increas speed. If the pm (when pro

burning or co of resistance uation (9), it is also one ion of the trav

of the travele count and te d.

largely the re onal to the sq r. Reportedly 40 mm, respe ends down [1

sed rotor spe er; m =

angular

(6) ng, the on drag,

(7) (8) angular

(9) ses as a

spindle cessing omplete to the can be of the veler on er must enacity-

esult of quare of a rotor ctively, 15]. To eed, the

(5)

n = 3.2 Where If the decrea becaus cause multip require in the thread to stre is in th [16]. R strengt In this (CCS additio actual import actual/

proper In ord differe possib the sam amoun be use

Table 1 Cotton Abde

MIC (M Strength Max. (M

Table 2 Cotton

Alma

Journal of Tex A Study o Quality an

2 x 106/D e, n = rotor sp

rotor speed ase in breakin

se of the incr a permanent ple breakages i

ed in yarns is weaving and s. These imply ngth, as evalu he majority of Reportedly, br

th and elongat s work, in add of TEXTEC on to the usu (absolute) tant to note /absolute me rties [18].

der to compar ent areas, wor

le to take acc me variety. H nt of energy n

d.

1. Values of the Cultivating Ar rafe

Micronaire readin h), FE (Fiber Elon Maximum), S.E (s

2. Values of the Cultivating Ar aehal

xtiles and Engineer n the Fibre Para nd Processability

eed; D = diam is increased ng elongation ease in spinn strain in the y in the weavin referred as the d finishing o y functional u uating media, f cases the onl reeders are ad tion [17].

dition to HVI, CHNO, Germ ual relative te strength-elon e that CCS easurement

re cotton of rk of rupture s count of the v Hence, specific needed to brea

Abderafe regio ea Fibre Prope MIC UHM UI SFI FS FE Rd +b ng), UHML (Upp

ngation), Rd% (R standard Error), R

e Almaehal regi ea Fibre Prop MIC UHML

UI SFI FS FE Rd +b

ameters of Cott y Evaluation

meter of the ro beyond the n of the yarn ning tension. T yarn which co ng shed. The a

e per cent take operations, an use of yarn ela even though ly one measur dvised to give

, the Cotton C many) was als sting method gation testin S applies th

of bundle

the same va should be eva various elong

c work of rup ak a sample of

on fiber properti erties

ML

per Half Mean l Reflectance), +b ( R (Range), C.V%

ion fiber proper perties

L

on

otor

optimal level n will be res This in turn w ould be result amount of “str e-up or contra nd “sewability

asticity, in add the latter pro red and consid e attention to

Classifying Sy so used. CC

of HVI, use ng method.

he principle tensile-elong

riety cultivate aluated so tha

ation properti pture, which i f unit mass, sh

ies and their sta

M S. D

4.10 0.37 29.56 0.74 86.02 0.77 6.47 0.54 30.26 1.24 6.53 0.34 84.75 1.27 9.69 0.59 length), UI (Unif (yellowness), M ( (Coefficient of V

rties and their st S

M S. D

3.88 0.06 27.24 0.68 81.99 1.68 10.73 2.09 26.79 1.68 5.75 0.50 78.07 1.59 12.28 0.31

Cilt (Vol): 25 No: 11 SAYFA 185

(10)

l, the sulted would ted in retch”

action y” of dition operty dered o both

ystem CS, in es the It is es of gation

ed in at it is ies of is the hould

The meas whic fibre index cm), 2. M In th techn culti expe tenac samp Ethio and C Exp geno were comm the f param show quan show quan

atistical parame Statistical Para

Min. M

3.51 4.

28.31 30 84.80 87 5.80 7.

28.10 32 6.00 7.

83.00 87 8.40 10 formity Index), (Mean), S.D (Sta Variation)

tatistical param Statistical Param

Min. M

3.77 3.

26.39 28 79.30 84 7.30 14 24.10 29 5.00 6.

75.30 79 11.60 12

1

currently use surements an ch is the mai es. Thus, in t x (MFQI) wh is formulated MATERIALS he study, the nological val vation areas eriment of th

city and elon ples collected opia. For all e CCS laborator eriment 1: S otypes in the G e selected for

mercially use fiber properti meters from t ws their tec ntification me ws their techn ntification met

eters meters Max. S.E.

57 0.12 0.51 0.23 7.50 0.24 30 0.17 2.10 0.39 00 0.11 7.00 0.40 0.50 0.19 SFI (Short Fiber andard Deviation)

meters meters Max. S.E.

97 0.02 8.08 0.22 4.30 0.53 4.10 0.66 9.10 0.53 70 0.16 9.50 0.50 2.80 0.10

ed fiber qualit nd doesn’t co

in contributor this research hich considers d.

and METHO e first experim lues of the

of Gondar e study was ngation prope d from the wh experiments s ry testing instr Sixty samples

Gondar region comparison o ed quantificat es values of he three cultiv chnological v thods, ranked nological valu

thod.

R C.V%

1.06 9.02 2.20 2.50 2.70 0.90 1.50 8.35 4.00 4.10 1.00 5.21 4.00 1.50 2.10 6.09 r Index), FS (Fib ), Min. (Minimum

R C.V%

0.20 1.55 1.69 2.50 5.00 2.05 6.80 19.48 5.00 6.27 1.70 8.70 4.20 2.04 1.20 2.52

Tekstil v G. B K. Sub

ty index is ba onsider the r to the work

work the mo s the CCS wo

ODS

ment is done cotton obtain

region, Eth done to asse erties of the hole cultivatio samples were truments.

s from comm n of Almahal, of their techno tion methods.

the cotton a vation region values as d d (R) in ascen ues as measur

%

ber m),

%

ve Mühendis B. Tesema bramanıan

ased mainly o elongation p k-to-break of odified fibre ork of rupture

e for compari ned from the hiopia. The ess the influe

commercial on areas of G

tested by bo

mercial DP-90 Kokyt and Ab logical values . Tables 1-3, along with sta s in Gondar. T determined b nding order. T red by the m

on HVI property f cotton quality e (cN 

ing the e three second ence of cotton Gondar, th HVI

cotton bderafe s by the shows atistical Table 4 by the Table 5 modified

(6)

Table 3 Cotton

Koky

Table 4 Cotto

Abde Alme Koky

Exper betwee DP-90 compa 5 of C show respec Figure by the

Figu

Journal of Tex

3. Values of the Cultivating Ar

yt

4. The technolog on Cultivating A

rafe ehal yt

riment 2: It is en tenacity an 0 cotton genot

arison. The sa CCS instrumen

tenacity-elon tively, as me e 4 shows the

absolute/actu

ure 2. Elongatio

Figure 3. Elon

xtiles and Engineer

Kokyt region f ea Fibre Prop

MIC UHML

UI SFI FS FE Rd +b gical values of s Area Fibre Prop

MIC U

4.10 2 3.88 2 4.27 2

s done to ass nd elongation types in the G amples were te nts, with 50 re ngation relat

easured by th tenacity-elon ual method of

on vs. HVI tena

ngation vs. CC

fiber properties perties

L

studied cotton fi perties Cultivate

UHML UI

29.56 86.0 27.24 81.9 29.25 83.7

ess the influe n, 75 samples Gondar region

ested on HVI eplications. T tionships of

he relative m ngation relatio

testing.

acity. DP-90 com

S relative HVI

and their statist S

M S. D

4.27 0.20 29.25 0.63 83.70 2.73 7.55 0.73 27.46 0.81 6.67 0.49 83.19 4.94 9.44 0.16 fibre properties d

ed in the Three SFI F 02 6.47 3 99 10.73 2 70 7.55 2

ence of associ s from comme n were selecte

-1000 and Ve The figures 2 a HVI and method of te onship as mea

mmercial variet

mode DP-90

Cilt (Vol): 25 No: 111 SAYFA 186 tical parameters Statistical Param

Min. M

4.05 4

28.06 3 78.30 8

6.70 9

26.30 2

6.20 7

73.80 8

9.10 9

determined by c Areas

FS FE

30.26 6.53 26.79 5.75 27.46 6.67

iation ercial ed for ersion and 3 CCS, sting.

asured

ties

3. RE A M Fibe equa one follo index from comb shou meas pract shou param over It ha and

1

s meters

Max. S.E.

4.55 0.06 30.46 0.20 86.60 0.86 9.10 0.23 28.80 0.26 7.80 0.16 87.00 1.56 9.60 0.05 commercial quan

Rd +b

84.75 9.6 78.07 12.

83.19 9.4 Me

Figure

ESULTS and Modified Cotto

r Quality Ind ations, in whic

integrated in owing conside

x should be s m prior knowle bination of b uld be used;

sured ones, so tice; (iv) the uld be low;

meters used r different spin as shown that

FQI and also

R C.V

0.50 4.6 2.20 2.1 8.30 3.2 2.40 9.6 2.50 2.9 1.60 7.3 13.20 5.9 0.50 1.6 ntification meth The calcul by Quantif SCI R 69 158.2 3

28 123.3 44 135.9 2 ean 139.1

4. Elongation v

d DISCUSSIO n Fiber Qualit dex (FQI) is ch the cotton f ndex. It was

erations: (i) t selected from edge of their i both; (ii) the (iii) the pr o as to ensure error of mea and (v) the in constructin nning conditio (Fig. 2-4) the in other quan

Tekstil v

V%

68 15 26 67 95 35 94 69

hods, ranked (R) lated Technolog fication Method R FQI R 3 187.7 3 1 154.2 1 2 157.4 2

166.4

vs. Actual Tena

ONS ty Index s one of the

fiber propertie introduced o the fiber pro m the theoretic impact on yar

minimum nu roperties shou e the applicab asurement of form of the ng the index ons.

e positive cont ntification me

ve Mühendis

) in ascending o gical values ds

acity DP-90

ad hoe curv es are combin on the basis operties used cal considerat rn strength, or

umber of pro uld be the bility of this in

the fiber pro e function an should be in tributors in bo ethods which

order.

vilinear ned into of the in the tions or r from a operties usually ndex in operties nd any nvariant oth SCI are not

(7)

mentio evalua empha be con of spi varian is quite strengt Thus, the CC

𝑀𝐹𝑄

UHML HVI u MICH

to-brea Accord areas s the sta Egypti Ta Cultiv

Table 6 Cotto

U Even cultiva lack o proper tenacit work w relatio break found CCS inferre and el Fig.

elonga same c The to load re relatio

Journal of Tex A Study o Quality an

oned in this p ate the techn asis has not gi nsidered durin inning machi ce of HVI bu e useful as a c th maximizati

the modified CS work of rup

𝐼

LH is the HV niformity inde is the HVI fib ak (cN  cm).

dingly, the te studied are pr andard US U ian Giza 87.

able 5. Quality I vating Areas

Abderafe Almehal Kokyt 6. Quality Inde

n Varieties US PIMA Giza 87 US UPLAND

then, due at ating cotton w of interest to rty due to its ty. It is intere which showed nship betwee (r2 = 0.006) that there is a bundle tenac ed from Fig. 3 longation-at-b

4 (relationsh ation-at-break commercial va otal work-to-b equired to br nship for any

xtiles and Engineer n the Fibre Para nd Processability

paper are the nological perf iven to the elo ng the speed a inery parts.

undle breaking criterion for ba ion [20].

fibre quality pture (cN*cm

VI upper half ex (%), SFIH i ber fineness (m

echnological v resented (Tab UPLAND and

Index values fo Cot FQI 187.7 154.2 157.4 ex values for the

C FQ 479.

472.

170.

ttention and with the best “E

o breed the s negative co

esting to obs d that, from F en HVI bund for the comm a positive but city and elon 3 (relationship break (HVI/rel hip between (direct/absolu ariety DP-90.

break of the b reak and the

y bundle is r

ameters of Cott y Evaluation

main influen formance of ongation param

and striking a Reportedly, g elongations

ale selection a index (MFQI m), is presented

mean length is the HVI sho micronaire), W

values of cott ble 5 and 6) a d PIMA cotto

or the cotton in t tton Fiber Qual SCI 158.2 123.3 135.9 e US Upland, Pi Cotton Fiber Qu

I SC

.9 230

.2 228

.2 134

emphasis w Elongation”?

cotton with orrelation with

erve the resu Fig. 2, there i dle tenacity a mercial variety

also weak re ngation-at-bre p between CC lative mode),

CCS bund ute mode), (r2

bundle is a fu elongation be represented by

on

ntial paramete cotton [19].

meter which h action optimiz the between within a lay-d and yarn and f

I) which cons d below:

(mm), UIH i ort fiber index WRC is CCS w

ton from the and compared ons as well a

the three region lity Indexes

MFQI 97.2 39.4 66.3 ma & Egypt Gi ality Indexes

CI MFQ

0.4 287.8 .0 282.3 4.3 81.4 was not given

It is because o better elong h the HVI bu ult of this res

is a weak neg and elongatio y DP-90. But, lationship bet eak. This ca CS bundle ten (r2 = 0.091) dle tenacity

2 = 0.091)) fo

unction of bot efore rupture.

y a unique st

Cilt (Vol): 25 No: 11 SAYFA 187

ers to But, has to zation n-bale down fabric siders

(11) is the x (%), work-

three d with as the

ns

iza 87

QI

n for of the gation undle search gative on-at-

, it is tween an be nacity ) and and or the

th the This tress-

strain HVI prod corre elong elong total

Figu

4. C

Acco mod the Alm and valu The betw to th fibre cotto lowe short irreg draw leavi can elong the e Ack Auth Man Brem Inter valu Aust this r

1

n curve. Whi , the total w duct tenacity *

elation (R2 = gation and C gation and te work(energy

re 5. CCS W Elongatio

CONCLUSI

ording to all dified fibre qu

highest tech mehal.The resu

CCS data allo es of cotton fi weak negati ween bundle te he practices of e elongation on with impr er work-to-bre

t fibre conten gularity (due w frame) whic ing more thin

reasonably gation is to b evaluation of c nowledgemen hors are than nager Cotton/M men e.V. (FIB

rnational Stan able guidanc tauschdienst ( research study

ile the stress- work-to-break

* elongation. F 0.890) betw CS work-to-b nacity should ) required to b

ork-to-break v on for commerc

IONS

quantificatio uality index), t hnological v ults obtained s ows us to pred iber properties ive (HVI) or enacity and elo f ignoring for property. Rep oved fibre el eak with mor nt [9]. Short fi to floating fi h affects the q

and thick pla be concluded be considered

cotton fibre qu nts

nkful to Ax Member of the BRE) for allow ndard Cotton T

ce and sup (DAAD) for y.

Tekstil v G. B K. Sub

-strain curve k should be

Figure 5 show ween the HVI

break. Theref d result in an break the fibre

vs. product H cial DP-90

on methods u the cotton fro value followe show that the

dict quite accu s for commerc r weak posi ongation-at- b r cultivating th portedly, ign longation pro re fibre break fibres are also

ibres in the d quality of fina aces in the yar ed that the

while arrivin uality and pro

xel Drieling e Executive B wing testing Testing Labor pport; Deutsc providing fin

ve Mühendis B. Tesema bramanıan

is unavailabl proportional ws that there i I product ten fore, improvin

improvement es in the bund

HVI Tenacity

used (includi om the Abder ed by Koky

combination urately techno cial bales.

tive relation break should n

he cotton with noring of cult

operty could kage with inc the sources o drafting zone al textile prod rn body. There

fibre parame ng at the form

cessability.

(Dipl.-Ing.), Board of Faser

in the ICA B ratory and pro cher Akadem nancial assista

le from to the is good nacity * ng both t in the dle.

* HVI

ing our rafe has yt and of HVI ological

(CCS) not lead h better tivating lead to creased of draft of the ducts by efore, it eter of mula for

Senior rinstitut Bremen:

oviding mischer ance to

(8)

REFE 1. US

ch 2. He

ind Co 3. Lo Fi M 4. Ra

Ch So 5. M Qu 6. Ze Sp 7. Ba ya En In 8. Be

Ha Sc Jo 9. E.

Go co Co 10. He El Pr 11. M Jo 12. Or

Jo 13. Pl

“M Re 14. Vi pr 15. De

Sp do 16. Lo

Gr an M 56 17. M Co Ins

Journal of Tex

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att, M. M., K Mechanics of E

esearch Journal irgin, WP and roperties, part I

erichs, J., (198 pinning in th ocumentation, 1 ouis, A. Fiori, J rant, (1956), “E nd Other Fiber Medium Singles

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May, O. L., and otton Fiber Pro

struments”, Cro

xtiles and Engineer

bulletin, (1991 f cotton fibre”, nd B. Kelly,( 20 ool for cotton -70, March 21-2

), “ The Orig

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Doraisamy, I., S P., (1995), “No xtile Research A nd Samanta, S.

The Indian Text , (1999), “App rTechnologies A 96), “The impo weaving perfo ber Selection ry, 1–13, NC, U Hequet, N. Abid 7), “Using Fibe Cotton Breedin

0): 770–778.

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nd Craven, J.

Tenacity as R tile R search Jo

(1946), “The e xtile Institute., Grant, J. N., ( 509.

Klein, W. G., Elastic Performa

l, 22: 641-667.

Wakeham H., IV”. Textile Re 86), “ Theoreti he Production 1–9, No. 16, a14 Jack E. Sands, Effect of Cotto Properties on Yarn”; Textil

Jividen, G. M operties as Mea op Science, 39:

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Association, Co K. (2000), “A tile Journal., 11 plication Hand AG, Switzerlan ortance of cotton formance”, Proc System C USA.

d, J. Gannaway er Elongation ng Programs”;

ner, B. Kelly, H fiber quality ce ng” 33rd In men, Germany.

C., (1956), "C Related to Som ournal, 26: 479-

elastic propert 37, 10: 469- 48 ( 1953), “ Cotto

and Hambur ance of Textile (1956), “Cotto esearch Journal;

ical and Pract n of Fine 41e-3.86.

Herschel W. L on Fiber Bundl

the Properties le Research Jo ., (1999), “Gen asured by Sing 328–333.

ment of the q

ng yarn quality International C

rmany.

essment of C r Cotton, Dids ajamanickan, R Spinning Mills”

imbatore, India Fresh Look at 11 (3): 29-37.

dbook of Uster nd.

n fiber elongatio ceedings of the onference, C , J.-Y. Drean an to Improve Ge

; Textile Rese H. Sari-Sarraf, a eiling: Limitatio nternational C

Cotton Fiber B me Fiber and

84.

ies of textile fi 0.

on”, Textile Re rger, W. J., ( e Materials”, T

on quality and

; 26: 177–191.

tical Limits of Yarns”, Schla

Little, and Jame e Break Elong s of a Coarse a

urnal; 26 (7):

netic Modificat gle and High Vo

Cilt (Vol): 25 No SAYFA 18 quality

y: “An Cotton

Cotton sbury, R. and

”. The a.

Fiber

r HVI on on e 9th Cotton nd O.

enetic earch and S.

ons of Cotton

Bundle Yarn

fibres”,

esearch (1952), Textile

fiber

f Rotor afhorst es N.

gation and a 553–

tion of Volume

18.

19.

20.

o: 111 88

Kugler, G., U.

cotton by us 1000”, Spinnin Tesema, G. B different quan Ethiopian, Ind Fiber and Texti Koo H.J., and Strength throu Journal, 69 (6)

Mörschel, W.

sing Textechno ng Seminar; Den

., and Hussein ntification met dian & Egyptia

ile Research 5 ( Suh M.W, (1 gh Variance of : 447 – 456.

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. Stein, (2012) o FIBROTEST

nkendorf.

n, K.M.M., (2 thods to defi an cottons” In (2): 9-15.

999), “Maximi f HVI Elongati

ve Mühendis

), “Strength tes in comparison 015), “Compar fine fiber qua nternational Jou

izing Yarn and ion”; Textile R

sting of to HVI

rison of ality of

urnal of

d Fabric Research

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