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The Classification Of Regular Repeating Patterns

MAHANN G.M.THOMSON University of Leeds, Dept.of Textile Ind. ENGLAND In the immediate wake of the Great Exhibition of 1851, a small number of notable studies concerned withpat- tern werepublished hobably the most significant con- tribution amongst these was Owen Jones' "The Gmm- mar of Ornament", published in 1856. An important step towards the further classification of pattern was made in 1910 with the publication of Christie's "Pat- tern Design" (then "Traditional Methods of Pattern De- signing'?. From the viewpoint ofpattern in textiles, the most significant early attempt to classify repeatingpat- tern types according to geometrical principles was ma- de by Woods in 1935and 1936 when hepresented a sy- stem ofpattern classification borrowed from the discip- line of crystallography. Since the publication of Woods' study, a number of useful works, which have focused on the geometrical classification ofpattern, have appe- ared. The objectives of this paper are firstly to review the relevant litemture and secondly to present a system for analysing and classifiying textile patterns accor- ding to their symmetry characteristics.

1. INTRODUCTION

In the immediate wake of the Great Exhibition of 1851, a small number of notable studies concerned with patternwere published. Probably the most signs- cant contribution amongst these was Owen Jones's "T- he Grammer of Ornament", published in 1856. During the course of his discussion of subject matter from a se- lection of cultures and time periods, Jones relied on a tentative analytical approach based mainly on histori- cal premise and anthropological conjecture. Although such an approach had obvious analytical limitations, it was nonetheless in contrast to the vast bulk of contem- porary publications which were, in the main, merely il- lustrative in nature and were lacking in worthwhile commentary of analyses (an obvious criticism of many works published duringthe nineteenth and early twen- tieth centuries). Jones's work spanned a number of ti- me periods and styles and was not only concerned with two-dimensional pattern but decoration across the full range of the applied arts and architecture. Subsequent

to its publication in French and German, "The Gram- mar of Ornament" acted as a stimulus for similar publi- cations in other parts of Europe. These publications played a role in ensuring that the study of pattern achi- eved the status ofanacademically acceptable area of en- quiry. Crucial to this acceptability was a recognition of the importance of the subject matter as a data source to the developing disciplines of anthropogy (e.g. Boas,

1927) and archaeology (e.g. Petrie, 1930).

An important step towards the further classification of pattern came with the first publication of Christie's

"Pattern Design" (then entitled "Traditional Methods of Pattern Designing') in 1910. Christie, unlike Owen, groupedpatternsaccordingtotheir structural characte- ristics and not according to the periods or cultures in which they were produced. Further notable contributi- ons to the study of pattern were also made by Bourgo- in, 1880, Day 1903, and Fenn, 1930.

In the context of textiles, it seems that the most no- table early attempt to classi@ repeating patterns accor- ding to geometrical principles was made in 1935 and 1936 by H.J. Woods, atextile physicist, who presented a system for classification borrowed from the discipline of crystallography. Since the time of Woods' study, a number of usefulworks, which have focussed on the ge- ometrical classification of patterns (although not neces- sarily textile patterns), have been published.

These, in common with Woods' work, have relied on classi&ing patterns according to their symmetry cha- racteristics.

With the above considerations in mind, the primary objective of this paper is to present a system for analy- sing and classifyingrepeatingpatterns accordingto the- ir symmetry characteristics. The perspective taken reli- es on that developed by Woods, the notation has been adopted from Stevens (1984) and the terminology was suggested by Shubnikov and Koptsik (1974).

2. SYMMETRY OPERATIONS

It has been recognised by numerous observers [e.g.Weyl, 1952; Shepard, 1948; Shubnikov and Kopb sik, 1974 and Washburn, 19771 that a motif can be repe- ated in two-dimensional space using one or more of the following operations (illustrated in Figure 1).

a-Translation, through which the motif is repeated vertically, horizontally or diagonally, while retaining the same orientation.

bRoMion,thmughwhichthemotifis~byturning.

c-Reflection, through which the motif is repeated by reflection as if by a mirror.

d-Glide reflection, through which the motif is repea- ted by translation and reflection.

Two-dimensional symmetry is best considered un- der three general headings:

TEKSTfL VE MAKtNAYIL4 SAYI:28 E K ~ M IS90

Diizenli Tekrarlayan Desenlerin

Giingor BASER Prof. Dr.

Ege Uni. Miihendislik Fak. Tekstil Miihendisligi Bol. iZMiR 185l'deki Biiyiik Sergi'nin hemen

sonmsznda desenle ilgili birkac dik.

kate deger inceleme yayznlanmz$tz.

Bunlar arasznda belki de en onemh katkr 1856'dayaymlanan Owen Jo- n e s ' ~ "Siislemenin Grameri" ol- mugtur. Desenlerin dahaileri diizey- de sznrflandznlmasz yoniinde onem- li biradzm 1910'da Christie'nin "De- sen Tasanmf'nzn lo zaman "Desen Tasanmwzn Geleneksel Yontemle- ri" baglz&nr tagzyan) yqyrmr ile atzl- mzgtw. Tekstil iiriinleri bakzg a p z - dm, tekrarlayan desenleri geomet- rik ilkelere gore sinzflandzrmada en dikkate deger ilk girigim 1935 ve 1939'da kristalogmfi disiplininden odiing alznan bir smzflandzrma sis- temi ortaya koyan Woods tamfin- dan yapzlmz$zr. Woods'un incele- mesi doneminden bu yana desenle- rin geometrik sznzflandzrmasz tize- rinde yo&mlagan bir dizi yamrlz ca- lzgma yayzmlanmz§tzr. Bu makale- nin amqlarz dnce ilgili litemtilrtl gdzden gecirmek ve ikinci olamk si- metri ozelliklerine gore tekstil de- senlerini analiz etmek ve smzflan- dirmak icin bir sistem sunmaktzr.

1. G i ~ i g

1851'deki Biiyiik Sergi'nin he- men sonrasinda desenle ilgili bir- k a ~ dikkate deger ineeleme y a p - lannugt~. Bunlar arasinda belki de en onemli kath 1856'da yaylnlanan Owen Jones'un "Siislemenin Gra- meri" olmugtur. Konuyu segilen bir dizi kiiltiir ve zaman dilimine b a l l o l d tarlqmasi sirasmda Jones genelde tarihsel temellere ve antro- poljik tahminlere dayah deneysel bir analitik yaklaqnu benimsemig-

tir. Her ne kadar boyle bir yaklag- min agk analitik sinirlamalan var idiyse de, hif degilse nitelik balu- mindan, yalnizca, sergileyici olan ve anlamli yorumlamalardan veya analizlerden yoksun olan (on doku- zuncu yiizyll ve yirminci yiizy~l bag- lannda yaylnlanan bir~ok d g m a ifin yapian biiinen elegtiriler)

pg-

dag ysylnlann genig bir boliimiin- den farklilik gostermigtir.

Jones'un pJigmasi bir dizi done- mi ve stili taramaktadir ve yalmca iki boyutlu desenlerle degil, fakat uygulamali sanatlann ve mimari- nin tiim alanz ignde siislemeyle ilgi- lenmigtir. Fransizcave Almanca dii- lerinde yaylnlanmasi oncesi "Siisle- menin Grameri" Avrupa'mn diger bolgelerindeki benzer yaylnlar ifin bir uyanu etkisi yapmighr. Bu ya- ylnlar desen incelemelerinin akade- mik apdan kabul edilebilir bir amg- tmna d a m olma statiisiinii kazan- masin1 saglamada rol oynamighr.

Bu kabul edilebilirlikte onemli aga- ma, konunun geligen antropoloji (Boas, 1927) ve arkeoloji (Petrie, 1930) disiplinleri ipn veri kaynagi olarak oneminin anlagilmasz olmug- tur.

Desenlerin daha ileri diizeyde si- milandinlmasi yoniinde onemli bir adim 1910'da Christie'nin "Desen Tasanmf' (o zaman "Desen Tasan- mininGelenekselYontemleri" bagh- gin1 kqinugh) eserinin ilk yaylnu ile ahlmighr. Owen'den farkh ola- rak Christie desenleri iiretildikleri donemlere ya da kiiltiirlere gore de- gil de yapisal ozelliklerine gore gruplamiqhr. Desen incelemesine

olan diger onemli lwtkilar da Bour- goin, (1880), Day (1903) ve Fenn (1930) tarafindan yapilmiijtw.

Tekstil iiriinleri kapsaminda, tekrarlayan desenleri geometrik il- kelere gore siniflandirmada en dik- kate deger ilk girigim 1935 ve 1936'da kristalografi disiplininden odiinfahnanbir slniflandirma siste- mi ortayakoyanve bir tekstil fizilqi- si olan H. J.Woods tarafindan yapi- nuqhr. Woods'un incelemesi done- minden bu yana desenlerin geomet- rik similandinlmasi iizerinde yo- gunlagan (her ne kadar mutlak tekstil desenleri olmasa da) bir dizi yararliphgmayaylmlanmi@r. Wo- ods'un pligmasinda o l d u a gibi bunlar da desenleri simetxi ozellik- lerine gore simflandirmaya dayan- nuglardir.

Yukandaki diigiinceler dikkate ahnhginda, bu makalenin oncelikli amau tekrarlayan desenleri simeb ri ozelliklerine gore analii etmek ve slniflandlrmak ifin bir sistem sun- maklx. B A g apsi Woods tarafin- dan geligtirilene dayanmakta, no- tasyon Stevens (1984)'den ahnmg ve terminolojiden Shubnikov ve Koptsik (1974) tarafindan oneril- migtir.

% . S ~ I E T R ~ ~ S L E M L E R ~ Bir~okgozlemci tarafindan (orne- gin Weyl, 1952; Shepard, 1948, Shubnikov ve Koptsik, 1974 ve Washburn. 1977) bir motifin agagi- daki bir ya da daha ~ o k iglemi uygu- layarakiki boyutlu uzayda tekrarla- nabildigi farkedilmigtir. (Sekil l'de gosterilmektedir).

a-Motifin aym yonlenme koru-

(2)

I Figurn I. The Four S~munerty Operations, (a)traslation, @)rota-

tion, (dreflection. (d)glide reflection

&kil 1. Dart Simetri tglemi, (doteleme, @)dhdiirme, (c)yanslt- ma, (d)kaydmk yansltma

a-Point groups;

b-Line groups;

c-Plane groups.

Point groups indude motifs which, within themsel- ves, exhibit the symmetry characteristics of reflection and/or rotation about a fixed point (or rotocentre). Li- ne groups are contiauous patterns running in one di- rection only, thus facilitating the repetition of a motif (which may be symmetrical or asymmetrical) between two continuous parallel lines. Plane groups are all-over patterns which repeat in two directions across the pla- ne. Designs within each of the three groups may be classified according to the symmetry operations inhe- rent in their stucture. This further classification is out- lined briefly below.

3. POINT GROUPS

An asymmetrical motif by its very nature does not exhibit independent symmetry characteristics and whilst it can be used as a repetitive unit in line and/or plane groups, it can only repeat (or coincide with itself) after a full rotation of 360". As a result, aysmmetrical motifs are classified as being of order 1.Examples are shown in Figure 2.

248

vigure 2. Asymmetrical Motifs

Sekil2. Asirnetrik MotiIler

Motifs which do exhibit symmetry characteristic (Fig. 3) may be classified using the following notation:

lm, 2,2rnm, 3,3m, 4,4mm, 5,5m, 6, tirnq...n, nm, n+:

n+lmi The addition of a mirror to an asymmetrical repea ting unit will yield a motif with bilateral symmetr which has a point group of order lm. Motifs from poin group 2 are comprised of two fundamental units, hav two-fold rotocentres and are of identical appearance viewed right-side-up or up-side-down. Motifs of orde 2mm have bilateral symmetry around both their hori zontal and their vertical axes. These motifs contain two-fold centre and two mirrors (one horizontal an one vertical). Three rotations (of 120", 240" and 360' bring a group 3 motif into coincidence with itself. GK up 3m motifs have three bilaterally symmetrical port ons spaced a t 120". Figure 4 shows examples of motil from higher order point groups.

4. LINE GROUPS

The symmetry operations of translation, refleetior rotation and glide reflection may be combined to prod^

ce continuous line groups (Figure 5). A total of seve (and only seven) distinct possibilities (from the viewpc int of symmetry) are evident and these may be classif

~rken dikey, yatay ya da gapraz

,ride tekrarland~a "oteleme"

b-Motifin gevirme yoluyla tekrar- ndia "dondiirme"

c-Motifin bir aynarun yapb@ gibi nsima ile tekrarlanha "yansit- a"

d-Motifin oteleme ve yansltma

! tekrarlandia "kaydmrak yanslt- a"

iki boyutlu simetri en iyi gu tic ge-

!1 bashk altmda iucelenir:

a - ~ o k t a gruplan b-Dam gruplan

da donme merkezi) etrafinda don- meileilgili (simetri ozellikleri ghte- ren motitleri igerir. Dogru gruplan yalnizca bir yonde giden ve boylece motifin (ki simetrik ya da asimetrik olabilir) iki surekli paralel

dam

arasmda tekrarlanmasini saglayan siirekli desenlerdir. Duzlem grupla- n diizlem boyunca iki yonde tekrar- layan yaygm desenlerdir. Ug gru- bun her biri igindeki tasanmlar ya- pilannda sakli simetri iglemlerine

&re sinfflandinlabilir. Bu ileri @a- madaki smiflan&rma aga@da lusa- c-~iizlem gruplan ca apklanmaktadir.

Nokta gruplan, kendi iderinde 3.NOKTA GRUPLARI

msima ya da sabit bir nokta wa Bir asimetrik motif kendi do@s

ekil3. Simetrik Motifler

igure 3. Symmetrical Motifs

sonucu baamsiz simetri ozellikleri ghtermez ve d o m vejveya diiz- lem gruplan i~inde bir tekrar biri- mi olarakkullanilabildi~ halde, yal- nlzca 360" lik tam bir donmeden sonra tekrarlayabilir @a da kendisi ile m g i r ) . Sonupa asimetrik mo- tifler Lderecede olarak siniflanchn- hrlar. Orneklei? Sekil2'de gosteril- migtir.

Simetri ozellikleri giistermeyen motifler (Vekil 3) agabdaki notas- yon kullanilarak siniilandinlabilir:

lm, 2,2mm,3,3m,4,4mm,5,5m, 6,6mm

,...

n,nm, n+l, n + l mm.

Asirnetrik bir tekrar eden birime hir ayna goriintusuniin eklenmesi l m dereceli bir nokta p b u n a sa-

hip iki yonlu simetrik bir motif iire- tecektir. Nokta grubu 2'den gelen motifler iki temel birimden olugur- lar, iki katl~ donme merkezine sa- hiptirler ve sag tarafi yukanda veya iist kenan aga@da olacak bifimde bakil&@nda benzer goriiniigtedir- ler. 2mm dereceden motifler yatay ve dikey eksenlerine gore iki yonlu simetriye sahiptirler. Bu motifler iki katli merkez ve iki aynaya gore simetri (Biri yatay biri dikey) i~erir- ler. Uc dondiirme iglemi (120",240"

ve 360") bir grup 3 motifi kendisiyle

falusacak kouuma getirir. Grup 3m

motifler 120" a p aralikli iic adet iki yonlii simetrik bolume sahiptirler.

Sekil4 daha yuksek dereceli nokta gruplanna ornekleri gostermekte- dir.

4.DOeRU GRUPLARI

Otleme, yansitma, dondiirme ve kaydirarak yansitma simetri iglem- leri surekli

dam

gruplan iiretmek idn birlegtirilebilirler. (Sekil 5).

Toplam yedi (ve yalnizca ye&) belir- gin olasdik (simetrik balug apsin- dan) a p k p goriilmektedir ve bun- lar qa@daki notasyon kullanilarak slnflandinlabilirler,

&%tm,mWWw@mm

En basit

dam

grubu, asimetrik bir motifin (grup 1) ijteleme ekseni

249

(3)
(4)

1984, p.3801. In circumstances where a pattern is witho- ut rotational symmetry, but instead relies on reflecti- ons or glide reflections, the lattice must have parallel rows of points at right angles to each other. These res- trictions imply that there are five distinct lattice types which may be used as frameworks in the generation of plane group patterns. The five lattice types, known as Bravais lattices, are illustrated in Figure 6.

A total of seventeen (and only seventeen) distinct plane groups may be generated using the five lattice ty- pes. The notation used to identify the seventeen plane groups consists of four parts which identify the unit cell, the highest order of rotation and other symmetry operations. The full internationally accepted notation, which may use up to four symbols in a defined order to classify plane patterns, is explained briefly below.

The first symbol, either a letter p or a letter c, deno- tes whether the paralleogram (or cell) of the lattice is primitive or centred. The former lattice type contains the smallest unit from which the pattern can be trans- lated. The latter lattice type is comprised of a diamond cell held within a rectangle so that reflection axes can be positioned a t right angles to the sides of the enlar- ged cell which, after symmetry operations, holds one full repeating unit (within the diamond cell) and four quarters of a repeating unit a t its corners.

The second symbol n denotes the highest order of ro- tation. The third symbol denotes a symmetry axis nor- mal to the x-axis (i.e. the vector directed downward).

The letter m (mirror) indicates an axis of reflection.

The letter gindicates a glide reflection axis and 1 indica- tes that the group contains no reflections or glide-ref- lections (no symmetry axes are present).

The fourth svmbol denotes a svmmetrv axis a t anele

date, been inundated with subjective commentary and superficial analyses). As atool, such a classification sy- stem may prove to be useful in corss-cultural compari- sons of patterned objects and in particular may act as a good analytical foundation in the assessment of rates and levels of cultural diffusion. Although attempts to utilise symmetry classification in the empirical context have been limited in number (reviewed recently by Washburn and Crowe, 1988, Ch.11, it is nonetheless evident that the potential for further use, particularly in the textile context, is immense. It is hoped that an ongoing research project at the University of Leeds will make a small step towards realising this potential.

REFERENCES

-BOAS, F., "Primitive Art", Aschehoug, Oslo, 1927. (Raprink Do- ver, New York, 1966).

-BOURGOIN. J., *Gmmm&z 616mentaire de l'omemenf pour s e ~ r d l'histaire, dla theorie et dla pratique des arts et d l'ensa ignementeu, Delagrave, Paris, 1880.

-CHRISTIE, AH., "PatternDesign", Dover, New York, 1969. (Rep- rint of the sewnd edition. 1929. fust published in 1910 as "Traditi- onal Methods of Pattern Designing").

-DAY, L.F., "Pattern Design", Batsford, London, 1903. (New e d i on: Taplinger, New York, 1979).

- FENN. A,. "Abstract Design". Batsford, London, 1930.

JONES, 0.. T h e Grammar of Ornament", Day and Son, London, 1856. (New edition: Omega. London. 1986).

-

PETRIE, F., "Decorative Patterns of the Ancient World" Bristish Sc hool of Archaeolow in E m t " , 193>(Reprinted as: "Recornti- ve Patterns d the Ancient World for Craftsmen", Dover New York, 1974).

-SCHATTSCHNEWER, D., "The Plane Symmetry Groups: their Recognition and Notation", American Mathematical Monthly, Vo1.85, 1978, pp.439-460.

- SHEPARD, AO., "The Symmetry of Abstract Design with Special Reference to ~ e r a m i c ~ewrati&. Contribution ~ 0 . 4 7 . ~ & e ~ i e Insritution of Washineton. Publication No.574. 1948.

-

a to the x-axis,"with a dependent on n, the highest or- -SHUBNIKOV. AV., &d KOPTSIS V.A, " b e t r y in Saence

I der of rotation (a=60" for n=3 or 6; a=45" for n=4; and Art". Plenum, New York, 1974

I -STEVENS. P.S.. "Handbook of Regular Patterns*, MPT Press,

a= 180" for n= 1 or 2). The letter m indicates an axis of Massaehwetts, 1984,

,

reflection, g indicates a glide retlection axis and 1 indi- . WASHBURN, DJC, m ~ ~ ~ ~

ofupper

t r y~ ~ ~j

cs-

~ ll ~ ~~ i ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

,

cates that the group contains no reflections or glide ref- ramie Design", Papers of the Peabody Museum of Acrhaelogy and

Tortinn. Ethnolow, VoL 68, Cambride: Harvard University, 1977

*-"-"A-".

- WASHBURN.

D.K and CROWE, D.w., "symmeties of Culture*,

The 'lane groups' together with the University of Washington Press. Seattle and London, 1988.

propriate notation for each, are illustrated in Figure 7. -wen. - H.. . -

.

. Universitv Press,

6. IN CONCLUSION 1952.

structure or arrangement (the study of which has, to stitute. Trnnsnctions, VOL ~1,1936. ~306-320.

I I

yigle q a a y a dogru yonlenmig vek-

tor) bir simetri ekseni anlamina ge- lir. m harii (ayna anlaminda) bir yanatma eksenini gosterir. g harii bir kaybarak yansitma eksenini belirtir ve 1, grubun hicbir yans~t- ma ya da kaydirarak yansitma icer- medigini belirtir (hicbir simetri ek- seni bulunmamaktadd -. , .

Dorduncu sembolx ekseni ile ag-

SL yapan, 'nin en yiiksek dondiirme dercesi olan n'e bagh oldugu bir si- metri eksenini gosterir (n=3 ya da 6 isin = 60"; n = 4 isin =45, n = l ya da 2 isin = 180") m harii bir yanslt- ma eksenini gosterir, g bir kayd~ra- rak yansitma eksenini gosterir 1, grubun hicbiryansitma ya dakaydi- rarak yansltma igermedigini belir- tir.

Her biri ipn uygun notasyonla birlikte onyedi diizlem grubu Qekil 7'de gosterilmigtir.

6.SONUC SQ coo,

sa

@o,

- b - h A - b BE4 mii@flB@ A- db A c - d h Bu makale, yayg.ln olarak tasa-

1"

I" 9" 9" SQ

-- 8V

"" \! n m y a p ~ ~ ~ ya da duzenlemesi'ola-

-b ,h ,b - b Gl@Q@Q@Q@ jb j b raksoz edilen sistematik siniflandir-

g- I" pw p" @ Q @ R s a s Q Q@ o,@ o,@

no@ \r --

I!

--

ma iizerinde basitse durmugtur (ki

d h b a b d h SQ

gs

d b db bu konunun incelenmesi bugiine

9"? 9" 9" @ @ Q @ Q @ Q @ I! ""

I r

kadar subjektif yorum ve yiizeysel

d b d b db %a db %a db

6 6 d d db db db db 4s d b %a d b %a

a * a * a * a * %a %a %a %a d b %a d b %a d b

d d d d d b db db d b %a d b %a d b %a

,*

,-.

,* ,* %,9 " % h g d b % h g d b

%a d b %a db $8

d d d d db db db db db c.8 db %a db

a * a * a * %a %a %a 5.3 %a9 %a %a

~ 3 p 3 m l p 3 1 m

+ -

II 7. Onyedi Diizlem G ~ b u [Washburn and Cmwe, 19881

Figure 7. The Seventeene Plane Groups [Washburn and Crowe, 19881

analizlere bogulmugtur). ~ i r &aG olarak boyle bir slniflandirma siste- mi desenlendirilmi~ cisimlerin kul- turler a m 1 kargila@nlmalannda fayda saglayabilir ve ozellikle kiiltii- re1 yayllmanln hulnin ve diizeyinin degerlendirilmesinde iyi bir anali- tik temel iglevi gorebilir.

Her ne kadar simetri smffland~r- malannda pratik apdan yararlan- ma girigimleri saylca az olmugsa da (bunlar yakm zamanda Washburn ve Crowe tarafmdan gozden gefiril- mi$tir, 1988, Bolum I), yine de ozel- W e t e k d konusunda daha ileri kullanim potansiyelinin smrsiz ol- d u a bellidir. Leeds ~niversitesin- de yiiriitulmekte olan bir a m o r m a projesinin bu potansiyelin anlasil- hiicreden olugur. diirme derecesini giisterir. ~ciincii masma kii* hir ad& olu@uraA-

b n c i sembol n en yiiksek don- sembolx eksenine dik (bir bagka de- @ umulmaktadm.

TEKST~L VE MAK~NAYIL~ S A ~ Z S -M 1990 253

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