Textile Design Education I n The U.K. With Specific Reference To The University Of Leeds
G.M.THOMSON Michael A. RANN Dept of T d e Eng. University of Leeds ENGLAND
A short account of the textile design education in the U.& isgiven in this aih'cle and various courses availab- Ie at Leeds University are erplained with theprincipal aims and ideas on which they are based
1.INTRODUCTION
From as far back in time as history can r e d , fibres have been worked into yarns and fabrics and finally mo- ulded into garments. The techniques associated with this manufacture were initially practised on a domestic basis nntil the onset of the Industrial Revolution which paved the way for the establishment of a factory based system of production. This development led to an incre- ased demand for abetter educated and trained workfor- ce.
By the end of the nineteenth century, thorough the fo- undation of the City and Guilds of London Institute, a wide spectrum oftechnical courses was available, desig- ned to cater for the educational needs of the U.K texti- le and clothingindustries. However, there was not just a necessity to provide courses aimed at solving techni- cal and production problems. Consumer demand for a variety in product design acted as a potent force to enco- urage the education of individuals with an awareness of the eastheties of textile fabrics. This educational ne- ed was met, at least in part, by the estabilshment of co- urses in Colleges of Art and a small number of Univer- sities.
2. COURSES AVAILABLE
The U.K. Department of Education and Science ma- de a significant contribution through the introduction of National Certificates and Diplomas which were ulti- mately superseded by the Business and Technical Edu- eation Council (B.TEC) Certificates and Diplomas. In addition to preparing the individual to cope with the ri-
gours of modem industry, these qualifications provide the opportunityfor entry to higher study and are recog- nised as appropriate qualifications for admission to mo- re advanced courses in Polytechnics and Universities.
B.TEC National Certif~cate/Diploma courses are avai- lable in centres throughout the U.K. Where appropri- ate, the requirements for the award of B.TEC, qualifi- cations may be ful6lled through full-time, day-relese and evening, block-release or sandwich modes of study. It shouldbe notedthat admission to B.TEC cour- ses in textile design is generally dependent on candida- tes presenting a comprehensive portfolio of art work at interview.
The Council for National Academic Awards (CNAA) have validated a number of courses leading to B.A. or B.Sc. Degrees in Textile Design. Whilst direct entry applications may at least be considered by most colle- ges offering such courses, successful application is ge- nerally after the completion of a pre-degree foundation year a t a recognised centre for art and design educati- on.
The Textile Institute, which was founded in 1910 to promote closer liaison between scientific and technical workers, represents an educational platform based on courses such as that of Associate of the Textile Institu- te (A.T.I.), a qualification which confers on the holder the status of a professionally qualified textile technolo- gist or designer.
A number of undergraduate and postgraduate deg- ree courses are currently available a t both Polytech- nics and Universities, these include the Scottish Colle- ge of Textiles at Galashiels, Hudderdield, Leicester and Trent Polytechnics, the University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology and the Universty of Leeds. A further examination of the courses offered by the University of Leeds is presented below.
3.TEXTILE EDUCATION ATTHE UNIVERSITY OF LEEDS
The University of Leeds Department of Textile In- dustries was founded over a century ago as a centre for textile education. Today the department is the largest of its kind in the U.K. and continues to retain its poaiti- on as one of the premier international centres for teac- hingand research in awide spectrum of textile activiti- es. Employing staff farm a wide range of disciplines, the department's teaching and research interests ex- tend through polymer synthesis, wool chemistry, dye- ing and finishing, electron microscopy, machine deve- lopment, yarn and fabric production, industrial texti- les, theoretical studies of yarn and fabric structure, computer aided design, pattern and colour in textiles, fashion theory, economic and strategic problems of the
Leeds Universitesi ile 0zel ili91rili Olarak ingiltere'de Tekstil Tasarrm Egitimi
Giing6r BASER Prof.Dr.
Ege Uni.Muhendislik Fak.Tekstil Muh.Bo1.iZMiR
Bu yazlda, Ingiltere'deki tekstil ta- sanm egitiminin ktsa bir anlatlmt yap~lmakta ue Leeds Uniuersitesi'n- ce sunulan fegitli pmgramlar, da- yand~klarr bagllca amafuegcirz2gler- le birlikte apklanmaktadlr.
l . ~ i ~ i ~
Tarihingeriye d o w gittigi en es- ki zamanlardan bu yana lifler iplik ve kumaga donugturiilmekte ve son agamada giysi bicimine dokiilmek- tedir. Bu yaplm bicimi ile ilgili tek- nikler fabrikaya dayall uretim siste- minin kumlmaslna y o l a w endus- tri devriminin b a g l a n ~ a n a kadar ev temelinde uygulanm~ghr. Bu ge- ligme daha iyi ogrenim gormug ve egitilmig iggiicune olan gittikce ar- tan bir isteme yo1 acm~ghr.
Ondokuzuncu yiizyll sonunda, Londra Sehir ve Belediye Enstitii- su'nun (City and Guilds of London Institute) kumlmas~ yoluylaingi~te- re'detekstilve h a z ~ r giyim endustri- lerinin egitsel gereksinimlerini kar-
$llama amac~yla tasarlanm~g genig spektmmlu teknik progmmlar sag- lanm~@r.
Bununla birlikte, yalnlzca teknik veuretimle ilgili problemleri ciizme- yi hedefleyen kurlar saglamaya ge- reksinim yoktu. Uriin tasanm~nda cegitlilige yonelik tuketici istemi, ki- gilerin k u m q estetig bilinci ile e g - timini ozendiren giiclu bir kuwet olarak etki yapmlgtlr. Bu egitim ge- r e k s i ~ m i , lusmen de olsa sanat ko- lejlerinde ve az sayda u ~ v e r s i t e d e baz~programlann a~llmaslylakargl- lanm@r.
2.MEVCUT PROGRAMLAR ingiltere Egitim ve Bilim Bakan- I@, sonunda IS ve Teknik Egitim Konseyi Sel-tifikalan (B.TEC) ve
Diplomalanna yerini b~rakan Ulu- sal Sertifika ve Diplomalanru orta- ya clkarmas~ ile onemli bir katluda bulunmu$ur. Kigiyi modern en- dustrinin giigliikleri ile b q edebil- meye haz~rlama yan~nda, bu kalifi- kasyonlar daha yiiksek bir ogrenim firsah saglarlar ve Politeknik ve
~niversitelerdeki daha ileri prog- ramlara kabul edilmeye yeterli kali- fikasyonlar olarak tarunlrlar. B.- TEC Ulusal Sertifika/Diploma programlan Ingiltere'nin tiim mer- kezlerindebulunabilir. Uygun oldu-
@ndaB.TEC kalifikasyonlannm el- de edilmesi icin gereken gartlar tam giin, giinliik izinli ve akgam, blok izinli ya da sandoviq ogrenim bigimleri ile yerine getirilebilir.
Tekstil tasanm~nda B.TEC prog- ramlanna girig izninin genellikle adayn on gorugme s ~ r a s ~ n d a sanat
&qmalann~nkapsaml~ birdosyasl- nl sunmaslna bag11 oldu@ hatlrlan- m a l ~ d ~ r .
Ulusal Akademik Unvanlar Kon- seyi (CNAA) Tekstil Tasanmmda B.A veya BSc. lisans diplomalama yonelikbirdiziprograml onaylam~g- br. Bu tiir programlar sunan kolej- lerin c o b tarafindan dobudan ya- pllan b w r u l a r dikkate ahnabil- mekle birlikte, bagan11 bir bagvum genellikle tanmmq bir sanat ve ta- sanm egitim merkezindeki bir onli- sans hazlrllk y111n1n tamamlanma- smdan sonra olmaktad~r.
1910'da bilimsel ve teknik Fall- ganlar aras~nda daha yalun baglar olugturmak icin kurulan Tekstil Enstitiisu, Associate of TextileInsti- tute (Tekstil Enstitiisu Diplomas1 A.T.I.)gibi, sahibineprofesyoncl ni- telikli tekstil teknolojisti veya statu- su saglayan bir kalifikasyona yone-
lik programlara dayall egtsel bir platformu temsil etmektedir.
Politeknik ve universitelerde gu anda bircok lisans ve lisans iistii program bulunmaktadm. Bunlar, Galashiels'deki iskocya Tekstil Ko- leji, Huddersfield, Leicester ve Trent Politeknikleri, Manchester ijniversitesi Bilim ve Teknoloji En- stitiisu ve Leeds ~niversitesidir, AgaDda Leeds Universitesi'nce su- nulan progmmlann bir incelemesi verilmektedir.
Leeds Universitesi Tekstil En- diistrileri Bolumu yiizy111 geeen bir sure once bir tekstil egtim merkezi olarak kumlmu$u. Bugiin boliim Ingiltere'deki benzerlerinin en bii- yiigiidur ve tekstil etkinliklerinin genig bir spektummu icinde egitim ve a r q h r m a yapan uluslararas~
merkezler icinde en onde gelenler- den olma konumunu korumaya de- vam etmektedir. Cokgeni~ bir disip- linler serisinden gelen bir kadroyu tutan bolumun ogretim ve a r q h r - ma konulan, polimer sentezinden, yiin kimyasma, boyama ve bitirme iglemine, elektron mikroskobu, ma- kina geli$irme, iplikve k u m q ure- timinden, endustriyel tekstiller, ip- likvekumqyap~s~n~nteorekincele- melerine, bilgisayar destekli tasa- nm, tekstillerde desen ve re& mo- da teorisi, tekstilin ekonomik ve stratejik problemlerine, h a z ~ r gi- yim ve hazlr eSya endustrileri, ev I-
$1 etkinlikler icin giysi ve donanun, tekstil ve giysi uretiminde mikroig- lemci uygulamalanna kadar uzan- maktadlr. Bu genig alanayaylan et- kinlik olr$isu dikkate allnd@nda,
193
textile, clothingand retail industries, clothing and equ- ipment for outdoor activities and microprocessor appli- cation in textile and clothing production. In view of this wide ranging scope of activity, it is not surprising that the department has been desribed as "a university in microcosm". The existence of a widely interdiscipli- nary research base has facilitated the availability of a wide variety of undergraduate and postgraduate sche- mes of study covering the aesthetic, managerial, scien- tific and technological aspects of tertile products and processes.
3.1.Undergraduate S c h e m e s Offered
Undergraduate degree courses offered a t the Univer- sity of Leeds include B.A.(Hons) Textile Design, B.A.(Hons) Textile Management, B.Sc.(Ilons) Textile Studies (with Colthing Technology, Textile Manage- ment options) and B.Sc.(Hons) Textile Chemistry.
TheB.A.(Hons) scheme in Textile Design aims to de- velop artistic skills with reference to Textiles and to provide skills in communicating design information to technical and marketing staff. The scheme recognises that professional and academic expertise in textile de- sign is best gained if studio work is carried out in associ- ation with the study of the related science and techno- logy. In addition, a small proportion of time is devoted to the study of the history of art, design and costume, management studies, fashion theory and retail mana- gement. A range of teaching methods is utilised, the well-proven lecture system being supplemented by tu- torials, seminars and projet work. In the first and se- cond years, knitting, weaving, printing and yarn de- sign are studied and practised hy all undergraduate de- sign students. In the third and final year, specialism in one of these areas facilitates the opportunity for more in-depth study and highly professional standards of ac- hievement. Many Leeds graduates in textile design find employment as designers in the U.K and abroad;
other graduates enter such fields as advertising, bu- yingfor the retail sector or market research where the- ir specialist knowledge and appreciation of good pro-
duct design and the underlying technology are welco- med assets.
3.2.Postgraduate S c h e m e s of S t u d y
A broad range of postgraduate schemes of study, which have proved popular to students from all over the world, is also available a t Leeds. These include the Postgraduate Diploma in Textile Design, the Postgra- duate Diploma in Textile Industries, the Postgraduate Diploma in Clothing Technology, the Master of Scien- ce (M.Sc.) in Textile Science and Engineering and the Master of Science (M.Sc.) in Dyeing and Finishing.
The Postgraduate Diploma in Textile Design is in- tended for arts or education graduates whowish to furt- her develop skills in textile design and t o integrate the- se with an appreciation of textile processing techno- logy. The contrent of the scheme is individually tailo- red to each candidate's specific needs and depends on their previous experience, area (s) of specialism and fu- ture career aspirations. In addition to passing examina- tions based on lecture courses taken, students are requ- ired to produce a substantial portfolio of design work carried out in woven, knitted or printed textiles or yarn design.
3.3.Research Activity
Also available at Leeds are extensive facilities for re- search towads higher degrees. Research has been con- ducted in the department at Leeds for over 100 years and the textile research school is renowned througho- u t the world. Former members of the school have led distinguished careers in industry, in government, in the academic community and in research institutions.
Candidates for research degrees are assigned to a mem- ber of the academic staff who acts as supervisor, advi- sing on the work. At Leeds, expertise is evident in
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branches of textile technology, textile chemistry, t e le design, textile physics, textile management and c hing technology, With decades of experience in tt areas, the department is confident that it can conti to provide an invaluable service to education, resea and industryworldwide.
L n u
xti- lot- Lese nue lrch
bolumun milcrokozmik biruniversi- te olarak adlandmlm~q olmas~ gaglr- bci degildir. Geniq oleude disiplin- ler aras~ olan bir temelin varl~@, tekstil uriin ve iglemlerinin estetik, yonetsel, bilimselve teknolojik yon- lerini kapsayan qok ceqitli lisans ve lisans iistii ofgetim programlannin saglanmas~m kolaylafirm~fir.
3.1.Sunulan L i s a n s P r o g r a m I a n
Leeds Universitesi'nce sunulan lisans programlan Tekstil T a s a n m ~ dahnda B.A.(Hons.), Tekstil Iqlet- meciligi dahnda B.A.(Hons.), Tek- stil Bilimleri d a h d a (Hazir Giyim Teknolojisi, Tekstil Teknolojisi ve- ya Tekstil Isletmeciligi Opsiyonla- nnda) B.Sc.(Hons.) ve Tekstil Kim- y a s ~ dal~nda B.Sc.(Hons.) k u r l a n n ~ icermektedir.
Tekstil T a s a n m ~ dalmdaki B.A.(Hons.) program tekstiIle iliq- kili sanatsal becerileri geli$irmeyi ve tasanm bilgisini teknik ve pazar- lamaelemanlannaah-tarmayetileri- nisaglamayl amaclamaktad~r. Prog- ram tekstil tasar~m alanindaki mesleksel ve akademik uzmanl~@n, stiidyo p l q m a s ~ ilgili bilim ve tek- nolojinin incelenmesi ile birlikte ya- p~ld@nda en iyi bi~imde kazan~ldl-
@ n ~ kabul eder. Ek olarak zamamn kii~ukbirbolumu sanattarihi, tasa- n m ve giysi, iqletmecilik, moda teo- risi ve perakende satq yonteminin incelenmesine a y n l m ~ q t ~ r . Kanrt- lanm~g ders sistemi damqmanllk kurlan, seminer ve proje Nlqmala-
rlyla desteldenerek bir dizi ogretim yonteminden yararlanilmaktad~r.
Birinci ve ikinci yllarda tum lisans duzeyi tasanm ofgencileri tarafin- dan orme, dokuma, b a s h ve iplikta- s a n m okunmakta ve nygulanmak- tadw. Ucuncu ve son ydda bu alan- lardan birinde uzmanlqma daha derin inceleme ve oldukp yiiksek mesleksel b q a n standard1 i ~ n fir- satlar yarabr. Tekstil Tasanrm da- hndaki b i r ~ o k Leeds mezunu Ingil- tere'de ve d~qmda t a s a n m c ~ olarak iq bulmaktadirlar; diger mezunlar kendi uzmanlik bilgilerinin ve iyi bir iiriin tasanmmn ve ilgili tekno- lojiyi kavramamn istenen nitelikler sayld15 reklam, perakende sekto- rii ifin sabn alma ve pazar arafir- mas1 gibi alanlara girmektedirler.
3.2.Lisansiistii Egitim P r o g r a m l a n
Dunyan~n heryanmdan gelen og- rencilerce populer oldugu kamtla- nan geniq bir lisans iistii egitim program dizisi de Leeds'de saglan- rn~fir.Bunlar Tekstii T a s a r ~ m n d a Lisansustii Diploma, Tekstil En- dustrilerinde Lisansiistii Diploma, H a z ~ r Giyim Teknolojisinde Lisan- siistii Diploma, Tekstil Bilim ve MuhendisliG dallanndaYiiksek Li- sans (M.Sc.) ve Boyama ve Terbiye dallannda Yuksek Lisans (M.Sc.1 diplomdanm icerir.
Tekstil T a s a r ~ m n d a Lisansustii Diploma, tekstil tasanm dalmda daha ileri beceriler geli$irmek ve bunlan tekstil islemleri teknoloiisi-
teyen sanat ya da egtim d a l ~ me- zunlar~ icin dugunulmiiqttir. Prog- ramm icerigi her adaym ozel gerek- sinimlerine gore bicimlendirilir ve daha onceki deneyimlerine, uzman- hk danlanna ve ileri mesleksel amaclanna dayan~r. Allnan dersle- re dayall s~navlan gecme yaninda
~Bencilerden dokuma, orme veya baslull tekstiller ya da iplik tasan- m konusunda yiirutiilen tasanm pl~gmalanndan yeterli bir dosya oluqturmalan istenmektedir.
3 . 3 h g t l r m a Etkinlikleri Leeds'de aynca daha iist derece- lere yonelikara$rma icin genis ola- naklar bulunmaktad~r. Leeds'deki boliimde l O O y h aqan bir zaman su- resince a q b r m a yiiriitiilmektedir ve bMiimun tekstil arafirma okulu dunyacatan~nmakbd~r. Okulun es- ki iiyeleri endustride, hukumette, akademik cevrede ve a q b r m a ku- rumlannda seekin meslek yaqarm surmiiqlerdir. Ara@rmadereceleri- ne yonelmis adaylara, arafirma ko- nusu onererek ve $qma suresince kdavuzluk ederek danqmanl~k go- revi yapan bir ofgetim uyesi atan~r.
Leeds'de tekstil teknolojisinin, tek- stil kimyasm~n, tekstil tasanmmn, tekstilfiziginin, tekstiiigletmeciligi- nin ve hazm giyim teknolojisinin tiim bran&nndaki uzmanhk a p k olarakgoriilmektedir. Bu alanlarda- ki on ylllann deneyimi ile, bolum egitim, amfirma ve dunya kapsa- m n d a endiistriye degerli hizmetler safAamav1
-
siirdurebilecei2inden-
nin kavranmas~yla birleqtirmek is- emindir.
