Denim Kumaşlarının Aşınma Sonrası Renk Farklılığı için Kaplama İşlem

(1)

TEKSTİL VE MÜHENDİS (Journal of Textiles and Engineer)

http://www.tekstilvemuhendis.org.tr

Optimization of Coating Process Parameters for Color Difference After Abrasion of Denim Fabrics by Using Taguchi Method

Denim Kumaşlarının Aşınma Sonrası Renk Farklılığı için Kaplama İşlem Parametrelerinin Taguchi Yöntemi ile Optimizasyonu

Hüseyin Gazi TÜRKSOY¹, Sümeyye ÜSTÜNTAĞ¹, Münevver Ertek AVCI²

1Erciyes University, Department of Textile Engineering, Kayseri, Turkey

2Malatya Turgut Özal University, Yeşilyurt Vocational School, Malatya, Turkey Online Erişime Açıldığı Tarih (Available online):31 Aralık 2019 (31 December 2019)

Bu makaleye atıf yapmak için (To cite this article):

Hüseyin Gazi TÜRKSOY, Sümeyye ÜSTÜNTAĞ, Münevver Ertek AVCI (2019): Optimization of Coating Process Parameters for Color Difference After Abrasion of Denim Fabrics by Using Taguchi Method

,

Tekstil ve Mühendis, 26: 116, 324-329.

For online version of the article: https://doi.org/10.7216/1300759920192611602

Sorumlu Yazara ait Orcid Numarası (Corresponding Author’s Orcid Number) : https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2625-4063

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Gönde Kabul

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1. INT Denim with traditio blende elastan achiev and w operati attracti with a exist in like wa Coatin the sur can be surface surface smooth of a de knife, degrad where Denim are su occurr color differe expect denim It is th the co coating is imp the var abrasio optimi cost.

1.1. De The cl not ea have t increas simple perform of int applica includ design involv require employ quality determ recomm

Journal of Tex Optimizati After Abra

TRODUCTIO m is a strong,

indigo dyed onally woven ed with PET ne to add stret ved on the sam wet processes

ion for added ive to younge a faded or wo

n the denim in ashing, bleach ng form a thin rface attribute e applied eith e. Such a fin e treatment hness and lea enim garment foam and rot dation in the p the substrate m fabrics, whi ubject to wear red, coating o differences o ence due to t

ted situation, fabrics are no hought that th ontrol paramet

g process par portant issue.

rious coating on of denim ization techni

escription of t lassical experi asy to use. Fu

o be carried o ses. To solve e, efficient and mance, quality terest in the ations of the ing textile [3 n, parameters ves the applica

ed in manuf yed to find y characteris mining and an

mended by p

xtiles and Engineer ion of Coating P asion of Denim F

ON

durable fabri warp and with 100% c T to control

tch. Different me raw denim s. Denim fin d value to de er customers, rn fashion loo ndustry to acc hing, printing, n layer on the es of the trea her on a sma nish is simple

for specific ather appearan t is performed tary screen co performance o

material is on ich are largely r in many wa on the fabric

ccur on the f the usage of

the color dif ot desired by c he effect of th

ters of the co rameters on co The present process param fabrics by us ique reducing

the Taguchi m imental design urthermore, a out as the num e this problem d systematic a

y, and cost. In e Taguchi m method in a -16]. Taguchi design, and t ation of scient facturing a

optimal proc stics; and t nalyzing tole parameter de

Process Parame Fabrics by Usin

ic constructed white weft cotton yarn; h

shrinkage a t looks and va

fabric by app nishing is an enim fabrics

particularly b ok. Numerous complish such , coating etc. [ denim surfac ated fabric. Th all area or on

e to apply bu c effects suc

nce. Generall d by using any oating [2]. Ab f the coating, nly on the sur y coated for a ays during us surface will b fabric surface f classical de fferences due consumers.

e coating pro oating techniq olor differenc

study is focu meters for col sing Taguchi g the experim

method n methods are a large numb

mber of the p m, Taguchi m approach to op n recent years method has

world-wide ra i involves the tolerance desi

tific and engin product; par cess values f tolerance de erances in the esign [17, 18

eters for Color D g Taguchi Meth

d in a twill w yarns. Denim however, toda and wrinkles, arying hues ca plying differen important te and making by equipping s finishing pr h a need, inclu [1].

ce and thus ch he coating pr n the whole d ut provides a ch as bright y, coating pr y of the metho brasion can le especially in rface of the fa aesthetic purp se. When abr be rubbed ou e. While the enim fabrics

to wear in c

cess can vary que. The effe e of denim fa used on optim lor difference

method, a lea mental period

e too complex ber of experim

process param method provid ptimize design s, the rapid gr

led to num ange of indus e stages of sy gn. System d neering know rameter desig

for improving sign consist e optimal set 8]. The param

Cilt (Vol): 26 No: 11 SAYFA 325 Difference hod

weave m is ay it’s , and an be nt dry extile them them rocess uding

hange rocess denim a fast tness, rocess ods of ead to cases fabric.

poses, rasion ut and color is an coated

y with ect of abrics mizing e after ading d and

x and ments meters des a ns for rowth merous stries, ystem design wledge gn is g the ts of ttings meter

desig quali adop after The optim proc base expe the studi expe to es term Tagu meas valu char bette ratio the char char param statis whic conf proc 2. M Mini param the T prob level assig cond ortho the S of d param calcu study were The ident for o fabri param linea ortho expe cond

6

Süm

gn is a key s ity without in pted in this pa r abrasion of th

Taguchi tec mum setting

ess insensitiv d upon the erimental matr simultaneous ied efficiently eriment is to d

stablish the re ms of their main

uchi recomme sure the qual es. Usually, acteristic in th er, the-higher- o for each leve

S/N analysis acteristic, a g acteristics. T meters is the l stical analysis ch process par firmation exp

ess parameter MATERIALS itab Version meter design Taguchi meth blem and the o ls; (3) select gnment of de ducting of the ogonal array;

S/N and ANO design parame

meters throu ulation of imp y, the experim e carried out a

most impor tification of c optimization a ic passing spe meter was in arity effect o

ogonal array erimental plan ditions being i

meyye ÜSTÜNTA

step in the Ta ncreasing cost aper, to reduc he coated den chnique is a

of the contro e to the noise e technique rices are speci

effect of se y. The purpo determine the o

elative signific n effects on th ends the use o

lity characteri there are he analysis of -the-better, an

el of process . Regardless greater S/N ra Therefore, the level with the s of variance rameters are periment is c

rs obtained fro AND METH 16.0 softw of Taguchi m od includes th objective; (2) i

ion of the a esign paramet e experiments (5) analysis VA analyses;

eters; (7) ver ugh the con proving rate u mental design

ccording to th rtant stage i control factor.

are squeeze pr eed, drying tem nvestigated at

f the process table (Table n, because i nvestigated; f

Tekstil v Hüseyin Gazi AĞ, Münevver E

aguchi metho t and so, the ce the color d nim fabrics.

a methodolog ol factors to m

factors. The of matrix ial orthogonal everal proces ose of condu optimum leve cance of the he response [1 of the S/N (sig istics deviatin three cate f the S/N rati nd the nomina parameters is of the categ atio correspon e optimal le

greatest S/N e (ANOVA)

statistically s conducted to om the parame HOD

ware package method. The

he following identification appropriate or ters to the o

based on the of the experi (6) selection erification of nfirmation ex using optimum n and analysi hese steps.

in the Tagu In this study ressure, visco mperature and t three levels s parameters

e 2) was ch it is the mo five parameter

ve Mühendis TÜRKSOY Ertek AVCI

od to achievin parameter de ifference that

gy for findin make the prod Taguchi techn experiments l arrays, which ss parameters

cting an orth el for each fac individual fac 19].

gnal to noise) ng from the egories of

o, i.e. the-low l-the-better. T s computed ba gory of the nds to better vel of the p ratio. Furtherm is performed ignificant. Fin

verify the o eter design [10

was used parameter de steps: (1) def of control fac rthogonal arr rthogonal arr e arrangement imental result

of the optima the optimal xperiment; an m factor levels

is of the test

uchi method , the factors s sity of coatin d weft density s to study th

(Table 1). L hosen to det ost suitable f rs with three l

ng high esign is occurs

ng the duct or nique is s. The h allow s to be hogonal ctor and ctors in

ratio to desired quality wer-the- The S/N

ased on quality quality process more, a to see nally, a optimal 0].

to the esign of fine the ctor and ray and ray; (4) t of the ts using al levels design nd (8) s. In the results

is the selected g fluid, y. Each he non- L27 the

termine for the evels.

(4)

Table 1

Code A B C D E

After denim structu the w sample contro cotton three d the Ta was ap deposi screen used f of the Martin accord 3600D formul (E) o

∆𝐸

Fi

Journal of Tex

1. Control facto

e

Weft Dryin V Sque Fabric p

determining fabric samp ure by Çalık D

arp yarn wit es. The weft l parameter

and %5 Ela different densi aguchi experim

pplied by the ition of a coa n by squeezing for the coating coated denim ndale Abrasio ding to TS EN D model spec

la (Formula1) of the fabrics.

∆𝐿

^∗

igure 1. Martin

xtiles and Engineer

ors and levels fo

Factors density (picks ng temperature Viscosity (dPa.s eeze pressure (B passing speed (

the control ples were m Denim Inc. N th a density

density of t and Ne 10.4 stane-70 dtex ities (14, 17 a ment design, t Rotary Screen ating material g. A standard g of the denim m fabrics were

on and Pill N ISO 12947 trophotometer ) were used to

∆𝑎

^∗

ndale Abrasion

or the experime

s/cm)

e (°C) 1

s) 3

Bar) (m/min)

factors and t manufactured

Ne 8.2/1 ring of 17 ends/

the denim fab 4/1 ring core- x) were used

and 20 picks/c the coating of n Coating Me on a substra coating pat us m fabrics. The evaluated afte ling Tester 7-3 standard.

r (Figure 1) o determine th

∆𝑏

^∗

Tester and Spec

ental design.

Levels

1 2

14 17

120 140

30 50

3 5

10 20

their levels, with 3/1 Z yarn were us /cm for all f brics was use -spun yarns

as weft yarn cm). Dependin f the denim fa ethod, which i te through a sed in the mil e color differe er abraded wit

at 15000 c The Minolta and the follo he color diffe

ctrophotometer

Cilt (Vol): 26 No: 116 SAYFA 326 3

20 160

70 7 30

three twill sed as fabric ed as (%95 with ng on abrics is the mesh ll was ences th the cycles a CM owing erence

(1)

r.

3. RE In t depe desir the r color denim ratio

wher repre the p to a coati expe color are g

Tabl

Or

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 𝑆 𝑁

6

ESULTS AN the Taguchi ends upon wh red. In this st response type r difference i m fabrics. Th o are given in F

re yi denote esents the num performance c a better perfo ing parameter erimental layo

r difference v given in Table

le 2. L27 the ort

rder A

1 1

2 1

3 1

4 1

5 1

6 1

7 1

8 1

9 1

10 2

11 2

12 2

13 2

14 2

15 2

16 2

17 2

18 2

19 3

20 3

21 3

22 3

23 3

24 3

25 3

26 3

27 3

10 log 1 𝑛

ND DISCUSSI optimization ether smaller tudy, the colo

“smaller is b is not a desir he formula us

Formula 2.

es the data mber of exper characteristics ormance. Ther

rs is the level out using an values and the e 2.

thogonal array, Parameters

B C D

1 1 1

2 2 2

3 3 3

1 2 3

2 3 1

3 1 2

1 3 2

2 1 3

3 2 1

𝑦_𝑖²

𝑛

𝑖 1

Tekstil v

ION n method, an

or larger valu or difference w

better”, becau irable feature sed for the ca

obtained fro riments. Rega s, a greater S/N erefore, the o

l with the grea n L27 orthog

e calculated S/

average E va C D E Dif

1 1

1 2

1 3

2 1

2 2

2 3

3 1

3 2

3 3

3 1

3 2

3 3

1 1

1 2

1 3

2 1

2 2

2 3

2 1

2 2

2 3

3 1

3 2

3 3

1 1

1 2

1 3

ve Mühendis

nalysis of re ue of the resp was classified use the high v

in terms of alculation of t

om experime rdless of cate N value corre optimal level atest S/N valu gonal array, a /N ratios for a

alues and S/N ra Color fference

(∆E)

S R

(

13.12 -2

13.47 -2

14.43 -2

14.68 -2

14.97 -2

15.93 -2

15.01 -2

15.82 -2

13.77 -2

13.26 -2

14.58 -2

13.47 -2

14.50 -2

15.26 -2

14.51 -2

13.34 -2

12.25 -2

13.63 -2

13.33 -2

13.17 -2

14.13 -2

15.19 -2

14.91 -2

13.96 -2

13.84 -2

13.27 -2

13.82 -2

esponse ponse is d under value of coated the S/N

(2)

ents; n gory of esponds of the ue. The average all tests

atios.

S/N Ratio

(dB) 22.37 22.59 23.20 23.33 23.51 24.04 23.54 23.99 22.80 22.46 23.27 22.65 23.23 23.68 23.23 22.50 21.79 22.71 22.51 22.45 23.01 23.65 23.50 22.90 22.86 22.47 22.83

(5)

In the multip This i factor the fa maxim color factor S/N ar subtrac values differe pronou Based param 120°C pressu found temper density signifi it is o fabrics

Table 4 F

Re

Taguchi meth ple quality cha s equal to th at a particular ctor level [1 mum average e

difference va effect is show re shown in F cting the larg

in each col ence at the s unced.

on the S/N eters for colo drying temp ure, 10 m/min that the m rature (B) an y (A). In Figu cantly increas observed that s increases wi

4. ANOVA tab

Factor A B C D E esidual Total

hod, the aver aracteristics a he sum of all

r level divided 7]. The facto effect are sele alues of coat wn in Table 3, Figure 2. The gest value fro lumn. A high selected level

N ratio, the o or difference perature, 30

fabric passin most effectiv nd second eff ure 2, it is see ses color diffe t the color d ith the increa

le for S/N ratio

df Sum 2

2 2 2 2 16 26

-22.8 -22.9 -23.1 -23.2 -23.4

Mean of SN ratios

Signal-to

age effect of at different lev

S/N ratios c d by the numb or levels cor ected as the o ted denim fab

and the main e delta value om the lowes her delta valu

l for a given

optimum leve are 17 picks dPa.s viscosi g speed (Figu e input para fective input en that drying erence after ab difference of

se of the visc

Fi o of E output

m of squares (SS 0.938 2.805 0.596 0.520 0.055 2.870 7.784

14 80 95 10 25 40

3 80 95 10 25 40

Weft densi

Squeeze pr

o-noise: Smaller

each factor o vels is determ corresponding ber of repetitio rresponding to optimum level

brics, the av n effects plotte

was calculate t from amon ue means tha n factor is h

els of the co s/cm weft den ity, 5 bar squ ure 2). Also, i

ameter is d parameter is process at 14 brasion. More the coated d cosity which i

igure 2. Main e

S) Mea

( 0 1 0 0 0 0

20 17

7 5 ity (picks/cm)

ressure (bar)

Main Effe

is better

on the mined.

g to a ons of o the l. For verage ed for ed by ng the at the highly

oating nsity, ueeze it was drying weft 40 °C eover, denim is the

third pene struc Tabl Fa

*: Op

The diffe to th statis statis and E diffe error inter

effects plot for

an square (MS) 0.469 1.402 0.298 0.260 0.027 0.179

-

140 120

20 10

Drying temperat

Fabric passing spe

ects Plot for

6

Süm

d effective pa etration of the cture.

le 3. Response t ctors Leve

A -23.2

B -22.7

C -22.8

D -22.9

E -22.9

timum parameter

level of imp erence is deter

he result of A stical effect stical results s E factors are 1 erence of coat

r contribution raction of facto

S/N of E outp

F-value 2.61 7.82 1.66 1.45 0.15 - -

160 30

30 ture (°C)

eed (m/min)

SN ratios

meyye ÜSTÜNTA

arameter. Thi e low viscosity

table for the S/N A l 1 Level 2 26 -22.84*

2* -23.45 0* -23.05 94 -22.87*

4* -23.03 r level.

portance of t rmined by usin

ANOVA, onl on color d showed that th 12.05, 36.03, 7 ted denim fab n ratio is arou

ors is effectiv

put.

e P 0.104

0.004 0.221 0.264 0.860 - -

50 0

Viscosity (dPa.s)

is may be re ty coating ma

N ratio of E ou Average S/N, dB

2 Level 3

* -22.91 5 -22.83 5 -23.16

* -23.20 3 -23.04

the coating p ing ANOVA ( ly the drying difference aft he contributio

7.66, 6.68 and brics, respectiv und 36.87%, ve.

Percenta 4

4 1 4 0

70

elated to the aterial into the

utput B

Delta 0.43 0.73 0.36 0.32 0.10

parameters fo (Table 4). Acc g temperature fter abrasion.

n rates of A, B d 0.70% for th vely. In additi which indica

age contributio 12.05 36.03 7.66 6.68 0.70 36.87

100

higher e fabric

Rank 2 1 3 4 5

r color cording e has a Also, B, C, D he color ion, the ates the

on (%)

(6)

3.2. Co The co experim conduc previo S/N ra

where, and ηi

factor to be - want t the pro value Formu design In this predict (A2B1 coating determ using F Taguch experim Table Table 5

Optim Level

E S/N ra The c optimu calcula experim

In Eq.

the deg freedo and n experim means located Predic Predic

ƞ₀

𝐶𝐼

Journal of Tex

onfirmation te onfirmation ex ment. The c cting a test w

usly evaluate atio at the optim

, ƞm is total m

i are the mul levels. The pr -22.16 dB for to learn about ocedure is to expected [5]

ula 2, the pred n was obtained s study, after ting the respo 1C1D2E1) wa g parameters.

mined as 13.39 Formula 2. Th hi design. Th mental E usi 5.

5. Results of the Startin

Para mal

l A1B1

7

atio -2

onfidence int um factor lev ated to determ

ments are reas

4, Fα is the v gree of freedo m of j factor nr is the nu ments. For the that the verif d in the confid ted optimum ted optimum

ƞ_𝑚 ƞ

𝑗

𝑖 1

𝐹_{𝛼;1,𝐷𝐹}_𝑀𝑆𝑒 ∗

xtiles and Engineer

tests

xperiment is t confirmation with optimal s ed [17]. The p

mum level is

mean of S/N r ltiple S/N rat redicted S/N r color differen t the result ex back-transfor . When the p dicted color di d as 14.77 (E r determining onse under the

as conducted The average 9 and S/N rat hese results ar he comparison

ing the optima

e confirmation ng Coating

ameters

1C1D1E1 A

7.36 22.37

terval (CI) o vel combinati mine whether

sonable or not

value of F tab om of mean s rs, N is the n umber of re e present stud fication exper dence interval m S/N-CI<E

S/N+CI ƞ_𝑖 ƞ_𝑚

∗ 𝑀𝑆𝑒 ∗ 1 𝑁

the final step o experiment ettings of the predicted valu calculated as:

ratio, j is the tios correspon ratio of optimu nce. If the S/N xpected that w rm S/N to fin

predicted S/N ifference valu E).

g the optimu ese conditions, with the opti of the experi tio was calcul re very close t

n of the pred al coating par

experiment for Optimal coat Prediction A2B1C1D2E1

14.77 -22.16

of predicted S ion at 95% c

the results o t. The CI is ca

ble, α is the er square error, m number of the epetitions in dy, CI was fou

riments for S/

l (Eq. 5).

Experimental 𝑚

𝑁 1 𝑛_𝑟

of the design is performed

factors and l ue of the mu

number of fa nding to opti um design is f N is known an will make the nd the perform N was placed ues of the opti

um conditions , a new experi mum levels o mental results lated as -22.5 to that predicte dicted E wit

ameters is giv r E.

ting parameters Experime A2B1C1D2

13.39 -22.54

S/N value fo confidence ba f the confirm alculated by:

rror level, DF m is the degre e total experim

the confirm und ±0.531 and

/N ratio result optimum

Cilt (Vol): 26 No: 116 SAYFA 328

of an d by levels ultiple

(3) actors,

imum found nd we e S/N, mance d into imum

s and iment of the s was 54 dB ed by th the ven in

s ent

2E1

or the and is mation

(4) FMse is

ees of ments mation d this ts are S/N<

(5) -22.1 -22.6 Fina (S/N S/N of th was calcu fabri 1.05

4. C In th the c meth comb impo the S

E a dPa.

spee dryin color the c 36.0 denim fabri time poss prop REF 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

𝑑

𝑑 𝐿𝑜

𝐿𝑖

6

16-0.531<-22.

69<-22.54<-2 ally, first trial N=-22.37 dB),

ratio of the se he optimal de determined b ulation, the co ics under opt

times.

ONCLUSION his study, the o

color differen hod. With th

bination of ortance of the S/N ratio, the are 17 picks/c s viscosity, 5 d. According ng temperatur r difference o contribution ra

3, 7.66, 6.68 m fabrics, res ics under opti

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