Ribana Kumaşların Hava ve Su Buharı Geçirgenliklerine İlmek ve Atlama Kombinasyonların Etkisi

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TEKSTİL VE MÜHENDİS (Journal of Textiles and Engineer)

http://www.tekstilvemuhendis.org.tr

Influence of Knit and Miss Stitches on Air and Water Vapour Permeability of Flat Knitted Rib Fabrics

Ribana Kumaşların Hava ve Su Buharı Geçirgenliklerine İlmek ve Atlama Kombinasyonların Etkisi

Palanisamy KANAKARAJ, Rajagopalan RAMACHANDRAN

Department of Fashion Technology, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore, India

Online Erişime Açıldığı Tarih (Available online): 31 Aralık 2017 (31 December 2017)

Bu makaleye atıf yapmak için (To cite this article):

Palanisamy KANAKARAJ, Rajagopalan RAMACHANDRAN (2017): Influence of Knit and Miss Stitches on Air and Water Vapour Permeability of Flat Knitted Rib Fabrics

,

Tekstil ve Mühendis, 24:

108, 269-274.

For online version of the article: https://doi.org/10.7216/1300759920172410806

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double jersey tribution of k rties of the fab

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ib fabrics wer miss (M) stitc iation in the f to test the sig is study. Base ty properties o h, air permeabi

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Cilt (Vol): 24 No SAYFA 26

STITCHE FLAT KN

nt of Fashion

re produced an ches in the fa fabric is in thr gnificance of ed on the test of knit fabric s ility, water va

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ES ON A NITTED R

Technology,

nd used for th abric structure

ree levels suc test results. I ts conducted i significantly.

apour permeab

ARI GEÇİR YONLARIN

lu iğne ve bo ek yönlü vary çirgenliği açıs rı geçirgenliği

Araştırma M

AIR AND W RIB FAB

Pa Rajagop

PSG College

he investigatio e has varied to h as 100K: 0M In order to co in this study,

bility.

RGENLİKL N ETKİSİ

oş iğne kombi yans analizi y sından önemli

Tekstil v

Makalesi /

WATER BRICS

alanisamy palan RAM

of Technolog

on. During fla to study the a M, 87.5K: 12 onfirm the si the contribut

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inasyonları il yapılarak Tuk

olduğu belirl

ve Mühendis

Research A

VAPOUR

KANAKA MACHAND

gy, Coimbatore

at knitting ope air and water 2.5M and 83K gnificance of ion of knit an

LMEK

e hava ve su key testi kulla

enmiştir.

Article

R

ARAJ*

DRAN

e, India

eration, vapour K: 17M.

f result, nd miss

buharı anılarak

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1. INT The ai have g body p equilib of se sensati by wat fabric fabric.

the ai charac throug yarn, f the fac researc fiber in porosit but it i the fab filling pattern dimen airflow directl thickn fabrics influen double permea fabric amoun arrang mainta water v that ha point i sides o for the The au such a absorp the fib the fib convec the res

Percen Where =

Journal of Tex Influence o Vapour Pe

TRODUCTIO ir and moistur great influenc

produces ene brium. The we

nsible and ion is based o ter vapour and is how well It is happene ir can pass cteristics of th gh the pores it fabric geometr ctors influenc chers are done

ncreases the r ty of knit fabr is not a comm bric produced rate can be p n fabric [2].

sion and its d w of the textil

y related with ess of the fab s. The autho nce on surfac e layer and l

ability of the varied. The s nt of air trap

ed in the fab ained by the w

vapour perme as been moved in time as a re of the sample e permeability uthor Brojesw as a) diffusion ption, transmis bres. c) adsorp bre surface. an ction. The wic searchers base

ntage differenc

e

xtiles and Engineer of Knit and Miss ermeability of Fl

ON

re transport p ce on balancin ergy and diss

earer skin dis insensible p on removal of d air permeab

the fabric allo ed in the fabri

through the e yarn. ii) The

is based on th tric characteris cing the air pe e their study i resistance to ric is increase mon rate for co

d with variab predicted for . The pore distribution in le fabrics [3].

h the structur bric also influe

or concluded ce porosity w ining knit fab fabric the w structure of th pped, this is bric pattern [6 water vapour eability indica d through a un esult of the pr

[7]. There are y of water va wari Das et a n of the wate ssion and des ption and migr nd d) transmis cking phenom ed on their ar

ce of knit and/

s Stitches on Air at Knitted Rib F

roperties of th ng of human sipates to ma sipates the mo perspiration.

f perspiration ility. The air p ows to pass t c in any one o

material, it e air can pass he structure of

stics and finis ermeability of in this field. T air flow also ed with increa omparison of le knit patter the compariso

characteristic n the knit fab The porosity re and the typ ences the air p d with there

with air perm brics [5].Dep water vapour p he knitted patt based on th 6]. The clothi

permeability ates the quanti nit area of the essure gradien e four mechan apour through al.,[8] pointed er vapour thro sorption of th

ration of the w ssion of water mena of the fib rrangements in

/or miss stitch

r and Water Fabrics

he textile stru body. The hu intain the the oisture in the

The comfor through the f permeability o the air throug of the followi is based on through the f f the fabric. So shing treatmen f the fabric. M The surface ar

increases [1]

ases in loop le air permeabil rn. The area l

on of variable cs such as bric determin of the knit fa pe of yarn [4]

permeability o is a signif meability of pending on th

permeability o tern determine he order of

ng performan of the fabric ity of water va e fabric in a ce nt between the nisms are invo h the textile la

d the mechan ough the layer

e water vapou water vapour a r vapour by fo ber also studie n the structure

hes between sa

Cilt (Vol): 24 No: 108 SAYFA 270

ucture uman ermal form rtable fabric of the gh the ing, i) n the fabric o, the nt are Many rea of . The ength, lity of linear e knit pore ne the abrics . The of the ficant plain he air of the es the loops nce is . The apour ertain e two olved ayers.

nisms, rs. b) ur by along forced ed by re [9].

The perm prod struc cons the f The miss perm fabri test signi this s 2. M The yarn stren has parti miss prod stitch The samp in T show repre S3.

Perc Whe = =

=

Perc Whe = =

amples =

8

structure of t meability prop duced with flo

cture compar sumption requ fabric has less aim of this st s stitches co meability and t ics. One way the significa ificance of res study.

MATERIALS flat knitted r n of (30^sNe) 1 ngth product ( used for th icular is show s/float stitche duced is show hes was selec

difference in ples are also c Table 2. The wn in Figure.1

esents the rep

entage contrib ere

=

entage contrib ere

=

P Rajagop

the fabric is im perties of th oat stitches ma ed to other uired for miss/

extensible an tudy is to inv ontribution in the water vapo

analysis of va nce of test r sult, Tukey’s

AND METH ib fabrics we 00% cotton r CSP). The opp he fabric pro wn in Table 1.

es in the str wn in Table 2 ted based on

percentage o calculated bas needle repre 1. The highlig peat of the pa

bution of knit

bution of miss

Tekstil v Palanisamy KAN palan RAMACH

mportant fact he textile fa ake the fabric combination /float loop for nd narrower [1 vestigate the i n the knittin our permeabil ariance (ANO results. In or least significa

HODS ere produced u

ring spun yarn pposite V bed

oduction. Th . By the con ructure, thre 2. The percen the equation of knit and m sed on the equ esentations of ghted view in articular struc

stitches =

s stitches =

ve Mühendis NAKARAJ HANDRAN

tor that influen abrics. The

c flimsy or les n fabrics. Th

rmation also l 10-12].

nfluence of k ng structure

lity of flat kni OVA) is condu rder to confi ant test also u

using two com n having 2200

flat knitting m e knitting m tribution of k e rib fabrics ntage contribu (1) and equati miss stitches b uation (3) and f the rib fabr the needle di cture say S1,

100

100 nce the

fabric ss rigid he yarn less. So

knit and on air itted rib ucted to irm the used for

mbined 0 count machine machine knit and s were ution of ion (2).

between d shown rics are iagrams S2 and

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(2)

(3)

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Table1

N Wid

M

3. TES The pe moistu The p proces param The co were c width centim length length Stitch Where = =

The tig It is kn loop to the rel

Journal of Tex

1. Flat knitting m Knitting M/c

Make Model No. of Needles dth of the Mach M/c Gauge M/c Speed (rpm

STING ermeability ch ure vapour per roduced rib f ss and carried eters are given ourse and wa calculated ind of the knit meter was take

was measure (cm) was tak length/loop le e

ghtness of kn nown that, is a o the area occ lative loosene

xtiles and Engineer

machine details

M/s A

hine

m)

Sample Code

S1

S2

S3

haracters of th rmeability tes fabrics were d out the foll

n in Table 3.

ale density of dividually in t fabric. The

en for the dis ed by using th ken and reporte

ength in cm =

nits was chara a ratio of the a cupied by the ess or tightnes s

Flat Knit APEX Engineeri Anmol- 3 1232 44 inc 14 40 rpm

Figure 1

he knitted fabr sts were condu kept under s lowing test. T

f the samples the direction e average de scussion. The he equation (4 ed in Table 3.

acterized by th area covered b loop. It is als ss of the knitt

tting

ing Works, Indi 3437

2 ch

m

1. Needle repr

ric, namely ai ucted in this s standard relax The knitted f

in face and of the length ensity per sq stitch length ), the average

he tightness fa by the yarns in so an indicati ted structure.

Cilt (Vol): 24 No: 10 SAYFA 271 ia

Tabl

Sam Co

S S S

Needle Rep

resentation of

ir and study.

xation fabric

back h and quare h/loop e loop

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factor.

n one ion of The

tight deter

Tigh Whe = = 3.1 W The 7209 (MV seale the s relat fabri perm calcu Wate

8

le 2. Percentage

mple ode

Knit Stitche (%)

S1 100

S2 87.5

S3 83

presentation

f flat knitted ri

tness factor o rmination of T

htness Factor ( ere

Water Vapou evaporative d 9 was used VP) of rib fabr

ed over the op setup is placed tive humidity.

ic) was mad meability of r

ulated as per e er vapour Perm

e contribution o

s Miss Stitches

(%) 0 12.5

17

ib fabrics

of the rib fabr TF the equatio

(TF) = ^√

ur Permeabili

dish method b to determine rics [13]. As pen mouth of d in a control . The weighin de successive ib knit fabric equation (6) as meability (WV

Tekstil v

of knit and miss

% differenc

S1-S2 S2-S3 S1-S3

rics were sho on (5) was use

ity

based on the B e the water v

per the stand f a disc, which

lled atmosphe ng of the ass ely to determ cs. The MVP

s given below VP) =

ve Mühendis

stitches ce between sam

Knit Stitches

M St 6.66 2.44 9.1

own in Table ed.

British Standa vapour perme dard the test fa h contains wa ere of 20^○C an sembly (disc

mine water P in g/m²/24h w.

mples

Miss itches 100 14.3 100

3. For

(5)

ard, BS eability fabric is ater and nd 65%

and rib vapour hours is

(6)

(5)

Where

= = =

3.2 Ai The m passing air pre textile fabrics evalua automa consta plunge throug fabric conver equatio Air pe Where

=

4. RES The ai were d each t varian 4.1 Ai The ai the kn Figure density the por sample and S3 the kn contrib

Table 3

Sam Co S S S

e

r Permeabilit measurement o g perpendicul essure differen fabrics [7].

s were mea ation system

atic air perm ant flow rate er and cylind gh the fabric

(R) is calcu rted into air p on (14).

rmeability ( e

SULTS ir and water v done based on test results w ce (ANOVA) r Permeabilit ir permeability

it and miss st e.2 and Table 4

y and yarn lin re size of knit e is higher for 3(83K17M) . T nit stitch cont bution in the f

3. Rib Fabric C

mple

ode Wal

(W S1

S2 S3

0

ty

of the air perm larly through a ntial between t The air resis asured indiv (KES-FB-AP meability teste

to the fabric der piston. T

is detected an ulated. The a

ermeability o

/ /

. /

vapour perme n the standard were discusse and Tukey’s ty

ty of the flat titches contrib

4. The yarn di near density ar tted fabrics. T r S1 (100K0M The linear tren tribution by fabric.

Characteristics

e density W/Cm)

14.76 14.61 13.35

0.0054

meability is th a known area the two surfac tance values vidually by

P1 Katotech er. The instru c through the The discharg nd ventilation air resistance

f the rib knitt

= ^.

ability of the d methods. Th ed with one least significa

knitted rib fa bution in struc iameter, knitti re the importan The air permea M) followed by nd has observ increasing th

course density (C/Cm)

8.7 8.8 9.6

r and Water Fabrics

he rate of air under a presc ces of a mater of the rib kn

using Kaw co, Ltd.,) u ument sends a e movement o ed or sucked n resistance o

value of KE ed fabric usin

rib knitted fa he ten reading way analys ant analysis [1

abrics with va ctures are show

ing structure, nt factors affe ability value o y S2(87.5K12 ved when decr e miss/float

y Loop Len (Cm)

4 0

6 0

1 0

Cilt (Vol): 24 No: 108 SAYFA 272

r flow cribed rial of nitted wabata under air at of its d air of the ES is ng the

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abrics gs for sis of 15].

arying wn in stitch ecting of the 2.5M) reases stitch

The signi S3 r than signi diffe samp respe S1&

struc in ai The fabri dens The miss The loop of th In S3 than in th place like same distr vary

ngth Stit (Stitc 0.53

0.49 0.49

8

analysis of v ificant differe ib knitted fab the F-critica ificant, the Tu erence betwee

ples S1&S2, ectively. The

&S3 are greater ctures (S1:100 r permeability miss/float stit ic, the wales i sity and make tightness of th s stitches and

miss/float stit s, which incre he fabric reduc 3 fabric the pe S2 fabric (14 he fabric mak es. So the air

single jersey f e air permea ribution of mi ying the percen

Figure 2

tch Density ches/ Sq.Cm)

118.37 129.39 124.05

P Rajagop

variance (AN nce in the test brics. The Tab al value (8.94 ukey’s least s n the air perm S2&S3 and S difference in r than q = 20.8 0K0M and S3 y of the rib kn

tches in a repe in the fabric b

the wales clo he wale is bas knit stitches i tch in a fabric eases the air r ced.

ercentage con 4.3%). The h ke the fabric

can pass throu fabric. Becaus ability. This

ss stitches in ntage contribu

2. Air permeabil

Tightnes Factor (Tex^1/2.cm

7 1

9 12

5 12

NOVA) confir t results obtai ble 4 shows th 4>3.35). In o significant tes meability resu S1&S3 are 30 n air permeab 82 as table val 3:83K17M) a nitted fabric.

eat of S2 fabr become closer oser linear sid sed on the dis in front and b c reduces air sp

resistance. So

ntribution of m higher percent thinner aroun ugh the fabric se of this the S can be vari between the ution.

lity property of

ss r m^-1)

Area Densi

(gsm

1.82 30

2.78 309

2.75 31

rmed that the ined from S1, he F-value is order to confi t also analyze ults of the pair 0.84, 0.188 &

bility of S1&

lue. It shows t re highly sign

ric increases f r which increa de of the miss stribution ratio ack of the rib paces in betw o the air perme

miss stitches is tage of miss s nd the miss s c with less res S2 and S3 fab ied by alteri knit stitches w

f Rib fabrics

al ity

m) Thick

(mm 5.45

9.80 1.50

ere is a S2 and greater irm the ed. The red knit

& 30.66 S2 and the two nificant

from S1 ases the s stitch.

o of the b fabric.

ween the eability

s higher stitches stitches sistance ric gets ing the without

kness m)

1.50 1.50 1.50

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4.2 W The w S1, S2 knitted form th and m WVP as com machin The W fabric becom and in pass t increas distrib spaces diffusi compa of wat compa Anova permea knit a critica also co WVP o S3. Th betwee 1257.7 shows

Journal of Tex

ater Vapour ater vapour pe 2 and S3 is sh

d fabric is ba he structure. i miss stitches in due to increas mpared to in

ne.

WVP value is increases the me closer lead ncreases the re

through the ses of miss

ution of mis s. This creates

ion of water v ared to S2 rib ter vapour th are to cotton (1 a shows signif

ability of the and miss stitc al] is shown in onfirmed that

of double laye he table valu en the above 72. The mean the significan

T

S

Ta

S

xtiles and Engineer

Permeability ermeability (W hown in Fig.3

sed on how t ie. the combin n a structure.

ses the numbe ncreases the i

high for S1 miss stitches s decreases th esistance for W

fibers more.

stitches (17 s stitches in s the net capi vapour. So the knit fabric. B hrough the ai 10^-7 cm²/s)[15 ficant differen e flat knitted ches in vario n Table 5. Th

there are sign er knit structu

e for q is 19 e paired sam n values are nt differences

Table 4. Air Per

Average Variance Source of Vari Between Gro Within Grou able 5. Water V

Average Variance

Source of Varia Between Grou Within Group

y

WVP) of the r and Table 5 the yarns of l nation percent The test resu er of knit stitc idle needles

followed by to 12.5% the he air spaces WVP. So the On the oth 7% in S3)

the structure illary force w e WVP of S3 Because the di ir is higher ( 5].

nce in between fabrics produ ous structures

he Tukey’s le nificant differ ures S1 & S2, 90.29 and the mples are 15

greater than at 95% level.

rmeability and A

e

AN iation SS

ups 6305.

ups 9525.

Vapour Permeab

WATE

2 AN ation SS ups 13711

ps 79543

rib knitted fab . The WVP o loops are ben age of knit sti ult shows incr ch forming ne (miss stitch)

S3 and S2. I wales in the f between the e water vapou

her hand, be based on c e increases th which increase fabric is high iffusion coeffi (0.239 cm²/se

n the water va uced with va s. [F (2, 27) east significan rences betwee S2 & S3 and mean differe 561.77, 304.0 n table value;

Anova Analysis AIR PERM S1 207.9815

494.231 NOVA SINGL S df

.61 2

.14 27

bility and Anov

TER VAPOUR P S1 6229.631 28711.89 NOVA SINGL S df

528 2

39.4 27

Cilt (Vol): 24 No: 10 SAYFA 273

bric as of flat nds to itches reases eedles in a

In S2 fabric loops ur can eyond closer he air es the her as ficient ec) as

apour arying

> F nt test en the S1 &

ences 05 &

; this 5. C In th contr wate stitch fabri incre incre perm furth fabri perm capil fabri fabri of o desig stretc

s of Rib Fabrics MEABILITY (CM

17 1 LE FACTOR DA

MS 3152.81

352.78

va Analysis of R

PERMEABILIT 4 2 LE FACTOR DA

MS 6855764 29460.72

8

Figure 3. Wat

ONCLUSION his study, the f

ribution of kn er vapour perm

h percentage i ic, which inc easing optimu eases the cl meability. The her in a fabri ic become m meability of th llary force. T ic is based o ic. For distinc ptimum contr gn can be u ch fabric.

s

CM³/CM²/S) S2 77.1333

40.303 ATA ANALYS

F 8.936967

Rib Fabrics

TY (G/M²/24 HO S2

4667.855 28322.78

ATA ANALYS F 4 232.7086 2

ter vapour perm

N

flat knitted rib nit and miss s meability of th in the structur

reases the ai um of miss/f loseness of e contribution ic (S3) based ore permeabl e fabric and w The tightness on the distrib tive knitted fa ribution of kn seful for fou

17 42 SIS

P-value 7 0.001051

OURS) 4 31 SIS

P-valu

6 9.48E-

Tekstil v

meability proper

b fabrics produ stitches are in the fabrics. By re make even s ir permeabilit

float stitches wales whic n of miss/floa d on distribut

le, so signific water vapour d of the wales bution of mis abric applicati knit and miss undation struc

S3 77.3214

23.815

e F crit

1 3.35

S3 4971.91

1347.49

ue F cri -18 3.35

ve Mühendis

rty of Rib fabri

uced with perc nfluences the

y increasing t spacing of wa ty of the fabr in the fabri h reduces t at stitches in ion of miss s cant increases diffusion throu s in two side

s/float wales ions, by the se stitches in a cture for bre

t

cs

centage air and the knit ales in a ric. By ic (S2) the air ncreases stitches s in air ugh net of the in the election a fabric eathable

(7)

REFE 1. Ele Infl Ma vol 2. Biv

and Fab 69- 3. Biv Dyn Fab pp.

4. Far kni 5. Boz

Krz Do Fib 6. Ast Infl the Vo 7. AS Per 8. Bro Ara Pro Aut 9. Jak text 10. Ajg Cor 11. Anb

and 12. Dav

han Eng 13. Sav Inst 14. Mo fibr Eng 15. Lea II, T

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properties of Publishing Lim

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