Dyeing wool fabric with the extraction of morus nigra natural dyes

2.International Conference on Value Addition&Innovation in Textiles, Faisalabad,2013

DYEING WOOL FABRIC WITH THE EXTRACTION OF MORUS NIGRA NATURAL DYES

Nigar Merdan

Department of Fashion and Textile Design, Faculty of Engineering and Design, Istanbul Commerce University, Istanbul, Turkey

[email protected] Şeyda Canbolat

Department of Fashion and Textile Design, Faculty of Engineering and Design, Istanbul Commerce University, Istanbul, Turkey

[email protected]

E. Dilara Koçak

Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Technology, Marmara University, Istanbul, Turkey [email protected]

ABSTRACT

In this paper first, the wool samples were mordanted than the samples were dyed with the dyes extracted from Morus nigra by means of conventional and ultrasonic method. The dyeing assessment was carried out using the CIE L*a*b* measured. Also washing fastness and light fastness of the samples were examined.

Key words: Morus nigra, conventional, ultrasonic, washing fastness, light fastness

1. INTRODUCTION

Natural dyes contain trunk-stem, leaf, flower, and fruit of plant or animal such as crustacean, gastropod, scroll case and cochineal. After discovery of synthetic dyes, use of natural dyes decreases.

But when synthetic dyes come into contact body, health of human is affected negatively. However the waste water of dyeing bath involves dyes and the auxiliary chemicals used at dyeing contaminate the environment so that textile industry investigates an ecologic manufacturing method. At the present time, using of natural dyes gradually increases because of the negative effects of synthetic dyes [1].

The natural dyes obtained from plant contain shell, trunk, stem, leaf, flower, fruit and seed of the plant [2]. Different natural chromogenic groups such as indigoid (blue), naphthoquinone (brown, pink and violet), anthraquinone (yellow, pink and red), Fenelon ( yellow), tannin ( brown, black, orange and dark blue), carotene (orange, yellow, pink and brown), chlorophyll (green) are extracted from plant [3]. West Asia is the homeland of Moris nigra generally grown for its fruits which are violent-black.

Natural dyes extracted from a variety of plants are used to dye wool, silk and cotton materials. The fastness and color values of the natural dyes extracted from plants [4], influences of anionic materials and process parameters on dying [5], enzyme-applications reducing the use of mordents which is

likely to be a burden to environment [6], and research regarding the analyze of natural dyes in terms of UV protection and antimicrobial features [7].

Use of ultrasonic energy makes saving in terms of process time, energy and chemicals also it provides to increase of product quality [8]. Ultrasonic energy induces to occur cavitation at the interface of solid/fluid as a result the mass transfer increases from fluid to solid phase [9].

In this paper, first the wool samples were mordanted than the samples were dyed with the dyes extracted from Morus nigra by using conventional and ultrasonic methods. The dyeing assessment was carried out using the CIE L*a*b* measured. Also washing fastness and light fastness of the samples were examined.

2. MATERIALS and METHOD

2.1. Materials

In this paper, 100 % wool fabric weaved plain, exposed to pre-treatment and area density of the fabric was 110 g/m². The fabric was dyed with the natural dyes extracted from folium mori harvested from Bolu/Turkey in May. Also the fabrics were mordanted with clay, citric acid, iron sulfate, sodium dichromate, copper sulfate, potassium aluminum sulfate and oxalic acid.

2.2. Method

2.2.1. Mordanting

After the pre-washing, the fabrics were mordanted with a variety of mordents before the dyeing. Wool fabric was subjected to the mordanting process at the boiling temperature for sixty minutes in the liquor prepared with different mordents, each of which is taken into consideration in terms of fabric weight, at the ratio of 1/20.

Table 1: Condition of Mordanting

Code

Mordan Quantity %

(by material weight)

Mordents pH

1 30 Clay 7

2 10 Citric Acid 3

3 5 Tartaric Acid 5

4 4 Iron Sulfate 5

5 3 Sodium Dichromate 6

3 g fabric was treated in 60 mL bath (1:20) At the boiling temperature for 60 minutes.

After cooling by itself fabric squeezed and dryed..

2.2.2. The Preparation of Dyes

In this study, 1000 g black mulberry was left in 20 L soft water for a week than the dyes were obtained after the mixture was filtered.

2.2.3. Dyeing Process

The wool fabric mordanted at the boiling temperature by conventional method with the liquor prepared with dyes extracted at the ratio of 1/300 for an hour. After the process, the dyed fabric was taken out the natural dyes extracted and it was left to cool. Then the samples were washed with cold water and they were left to dry themselves. The dyeing process was carried out with Maxwell Ultrasound Dyeing device at 70 ºC for 15 minutes and the samples were exposed to 20 kHz ultrasonic power. Then the samples were rinsed with cold water, hot water and cold water, respectively. The dyeing process conditions for the wool samples are given in Table 2.

Tablo 2.The Conditation of Dyeing Process

Convantional Method 3 g material

The liquor ratio: 1:300 Temperature: Boiling temperature

Time:1 hour The samples were cooled in the liquor themselves.

Ultrasonic Method 3 g material

The liquor ratio: 1:300 Temperature: 70°C Time: 15 minutes The samples were cooled in the liquor themselves.

Washings

Overflow cold washing (3 L water), Hot washing (500 mL water)

Cold washing (500 mL water)

2.2.4. Evaluation of the Colors Obtained at the Dyeing Process

Color measurements of the samples were performed in the color measuring device of Gretaq Macbeth – Color Eye 2180UV. All the samples were measured from ten different regions of them and the average curves of wavelength-%reflectance were obtained via calculation of the arithmetic mean of the reflectance values obtained at the every wavelength. The calculations were performed with respect to D65 light source and 10^o standard observer. At the measurements the sample which was not mordanted was accepted as standard and the samples mordanted were compared in terms of the colors. The calorimetric values were measured according to the CIELAB system and the equation 1 was used to determine total color differences [Fairchild, 1997].

     

*

L a b

E      



Where ΔE* refers to the total color differences. In commercial regards, if ΔE*< 1, the value of color differences could be accepted in general. The negative value of ΔL* result in that the color of the samples compared is darker than that of the standard whereas the positive value of ΔL* results in that the color of the samples compared is lighter than that of the standard. In the same vein, the positive

value of Δa* results in surplus of the red nuance whereas the negative value of Δa* results in surplus of the green nuance. The positive value of Δb* means that the yellow nuance is much whereas the negative value of Δb* means that the blue nuance is much.

2.2.5. The Value of K/S

The color of samples were evaluated with powering color(K/S) which was calculated with using of Kubelka- Munk Equations. The measurement of samples % reflections values were performed with using Datacolor Spectra Flash 600 plus reflections spectrophotometer and Data master computer program according to CMC 2:1 CIELab and CIELch systems. The measurement of colors was performed with respect to D65 light source and 10^o standard observer [11].

K/S = (1-R)²/2R (2)

Where R is the fiber reflections value of wave length at maximum absorption, K is the absorption coefficient and S is the scattering coefficient.

2.2.6. Color Fastness

The washing and light fastness of dyed samples was tested according to ISO 105-C06 and ISO 105- B02 standards. The washing fastness was performed with using of washing fastness test machine (Gyro wash/James Heal Co.Ltd.) and the results were evaluated with using of gray scale. As for that the light fastness was performed with the light fastness test machine according to reference of blue scale.

3. RESULTS and DISCUSSION

3.1. Values of Color Difference

The color differences calculated according to CIELab system and Kubelka-Munk equation takes place in Table 3 and Table 4, respectively.

Table 3: Different Colours CIELab (D65/10°)

Standard: Conventional Dyeing

Code Mordent ΔL^* Δa^* Δb^* ΔC^*

1 Clay 3,308 0,467 -0,120 0,241

2 Citric Acid 1,979 0,544 -0,730 -0,132

3 Tartaric

Acid

-3,560 0,146 -0,852 -0,509

4 Iron Sulfate 0,998 1,516 5,140 5,072

5 Sodium

Dichromate

3,883 0,545 -0,620 -0,034

Table 4. The value of K/S

Wave Length (nm) 1 2 3 4 5

c u c u c u c u c u

360 9,09 11,62 10,18 11,91 9,24 18,42 10,50 25,19 9,23 9,97 370 8,30 10,66 9,26 11,09 8,34 17,37 9,58 23,61 8,45 9,17

380 7,48 9,80 8,30 10,23 7,53 16,22 8,53 21,75 7,68 8,40

390 6,52 8,23 7,17 8,87 6,56 14,19 7,39 19,61 6,75 7,29

400 5,68 6,54 6,24 7,17 5,66 11,77 6,54 18,13 5,89 5,88

410 4,79 4,70 5,27 5,28 4,77 8,19 5,67 13,65 4,95 4,36

420 4,15 3,62 4,57 4,13 4,16 5,87 4,99 8,67 4,29 3,44

430 3,83 3,15 4,19 3,63 3,83 4,93 4,59 6,51 3,95 3,03

440 3,57 2,83 3,89 3,28 3,56 4,32 4,26 5,25 3,68 2,75

450 3,45 2,70 3,76 3,15 3,43 4,10 4,08 4,63 3,56 2,64

460 3,34 2,60 3,64 3,04 3,31 3,94 3,92 4,10 3,46 2,56

470 3,25 2,54 3,54 2,96 3,22 3,83 3,80 3,74 3,37 2,50

480 3,16 2,47 3,44 2,89 3,12 3,73 3,68 3,52 3,29 2,45

490 3,10 2,43 3,37 2,84 3,05 3,67 3,60 3,42 3,23 2,41

500 3,02 2,37 3,27 2,78 2,96 3,58 3,51 3,35 3,16 2,37

510 2,93 2,32 3,18 2,72 2,86 3,50 3,42 3,29 3,08 2,33

520 2,84 2,26 3,08 2,66 2,75 3,42 3,34 3,23 2,99 2,29

530 2,75 2,21 2,97 2,60 2,65 3,34 3,25 3,17 2,90 2,25

540 2,63 2,14 2,83 2,52 2,52 3,22 3,14 3,08 2,78 2,18

550 2,49 2,05 2,68 2,41 2,37 3,08 3,01 2,97 2,64 2,10

560 2,32 1,92 2,50 2,26 2,20 2,88 2,86 2,80 2,47 1,97

570 2,15 1,78 2,31 2,10 2,03 2,67 2,69 2,61 2,28 1,83

580 1,96 1,62 2,10 1,92 1,84 2,44 2,51 2,40 2,08 1,67

590 1,76 1,44 1,88 1,71 1,64 2,16 2,31 2,15 1,87 1,49

600 1,56 1,25 1,66 1,48 1,44 1,86 2,11 1,88 1,66 1,29

610 1,35 1,06 1,44 1,25 1,23 1,56 1,91 1,61 1,44 1,09

620 1,15 0,87 1,23 1,03 1,04 1,28 1,69 1,36 1,23 0,90

630 0,99 0,73 1,06 0,86 0,88 1,07 1,52 1,16 1,06 0,75

640 0,85 0,61 0,91 0,72 0,74 0,91 1,36 1,00 0,92 0,63

650 0,74 0,52 0,79 0,61 0,64 0,78 1,22 0,88 0,80 0,53

660 0,65 0,45 0,69 0,53 0,55 0,68 1,10 0,77 0,70 0,46

670 0,58 0,40 0,61 0,46 0,48 0,59 0,99 0,69 0,62 0,40

680 0,51 0,35 0,55 0,40 0,42 0,53 0,89 0,61 0,55 0,35

690 0,47 0,32 0,50 0,37 0,38 0,48 0,81 0,56 0,50 0,32

700 0,42 0,29 0,45 0,33 0,34 0,43 0,73 0,50 0,45 0,29

Figure 1: The color measurement of samples

The color of sample which was mordanted with citric acid then was dyed via ultrasonic method is brighter than standard sample. Also generally the color tone of wool dyed returns to red. The ultrasonic energy causes that the color tone returns to blue. However the color tone of samples mordanted with clay, citric acid, tartaric acid and sodium dichromate is substantially blue. Besides the colors of samples which were mordanted with iron sulfate are yellow tones. The value of chroma is high for the samples mordanted with clay and iron sulfate and the color of other samples are due to low value of chroma. When conventional method is accepted as standard, the total color differences of samples which were mordanted with five different mordent then were dyed via ultrasonic method(ΔE*)

are not among the accepted values (ΔE*˂ 1 ). While the sample mordanted with iron sulfate has maximum ΔE* which is 5.452, minimum value is obtained 2.178 from the sample mordanted with citric acid.

Figure 2: K/S Values

Whereas the coloring power values (K/S) of conventional dyeing used clay, citric acid and sodium dichromate is higher than ultrasonic dyeing, the coloring power values (K/S) of ultrasonic dyeing used tartaric acid and iron sulfate is higher than conventional dyeing (Figure 2).

3.2. The Results of Fastness

The light and washing fastness values takes place in Table 5.

Table 5. The Light and Washing Fastness

Washing Fastness Light Fastness

Discoloration Staining

Experiment CA Co PA PES PAN Wo

c u c u c u c u c u c u c u c u

Without Mordent

4 5 2-3 3 2 2/3 2 2 5 5 5 5 3/4 4 2 2

Clay 5 5 4-5 4/5 4/5 3/4 3 3 4/5 5 5 5 5 5 2 2

Citric Acid 5 5 5 4/5 4/5 4/5 3 3/4 4/5 5 5 5 5 5 2 2

Tartaric Acid 5 5 5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4 3 5 5 5 5 5 5 2 2

Iron Sulfate 4 5 4 5 2/3 4/5 4 4/5 5 5 5 5 4 5 2 2/3

Sodium

Dichromate 5 5 5 4 4 2/3 4/5 1/2 5 5 5 5 4 5 1/2 2

When the fastness values compares in terms of methods, significant differences are not showed, the light fastness are very low both method but the washing fastness are very high in both method. As a result, the washing fastness values are accepted for industry.

4. CONCLUSIONS

When the colors of wool dyeing which used the natural dyes extracted from black blueberry with using different mordents via ultrasonic and conventional method evaluates, it is showed that the dark color is obtained the sample mordanted with citric acid then dyed via ultrasonic method. All dyeing used ultrasonic energy has red nuance. While the dyeing mordanted with clay, citric acid, tartaric acid and sodium dichromate have blue nuance, the dyeing mordanted with iron sulfate has yellow nuance. The value of chroma is high for the samples mordanted with clay and iron sulfate and the color of other samples are due to low value of chroma. When conventional method is accepted as standard, the total color differences of samples which were mordanted with five different mordent then were dyed via ultrasonic method(ΔE*) are not among the accepted values (ΔE*˂ 1 ). While the sample mordanted with iron sulfate has maximum ΔE* which is 5.452, minimum value is obtained 2.178 from the sample mordanted with citric acid.

Whereas the coloring power values (K/S) of conventional dyeing used clay, citric acid and sodium dichromate is higher than ultrasonic dyeing, the coloring power values (K/S) of ultrasonic dyeing used tartaric acid and iron sulfate is higher than conventional dyeing.

When the fastness values compares in terms of methods, significant differences are not showed, the light fastness are very low both method but the washing fastness are very high both method. As a result, the washing fastness values are accepted for industry. So promising results were achieved by the eco-friendly dyeing should be carried out with the natural dyes obtained from black mulberry.

REFERENCESES

1. Borland V. S; Natural Resources: Animal and Vegetable Fibers for The 21st Century, Am.Textile Ind.,Vol(29),pp.66–70.

2. Bebekli, M., Serin, S., (1998), “Doğal Kaynaklardan Boyarmadde İzolesi ve Pratikte Kullanılabilirliğinin İncelenmesi”, Thesis of Master, Çukurova University , Institute of Science, Vol(77148).

3. Divakar, M.C.;Prospects of Natural Chromogene –A Review, Pharmaceutical Reviews, Vol(4), 1918-5561.

4. Shanker, R.; Vankar, P.S.; Dyeing Cotton, Wool And Silk With Hibiscus Mutabilis (Gulzuba), Dyes and Pigments,Vol(74),pp. 464-469, 0143-7208.

5. Kima, K.; Yona, S.H.; Sonb, Y.A.; Effect Of Reactive Anionic Agent on Dyeing of Cellulosic Fibers With a Berberine Colorant Tae, Dyes and Pigments,Vol( 60),pp. 121–127, 0143-7208.

6. Nagia, F.A.; El-Mohamedy, R.S.R.; Dyeing Of Wool With Natural Anthraquinone Dyes From Fusarium Oxysporum, Dyes and Pigments, Vol(75),pp. 550-555, 0143-7208.

7. Vankar, P.S.; Shanker, R.; Verma, A.; Enzymatic Natural Dyeing of Cotton And Silk Fabrics, Without Metal Mordants, Journal of Cleaner Production,Vol(15),pp. 1441-1450, 0959-6526.

8. Gupta, D.; Jain, A.; Panwar, S.; Anti-UV And Anti-Microbial, Properties Of Some Natural Dyes On Cotton, Ind. J. Fiber Text. Res., Vol(6),pp. 190–195, 0971-0426.

9. Duran K.; Bahtiyari M.İ.; Körlü A.E.; Dereli S.; Özdemir D.; Ultrasound Technology, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon,Vol(3), pp. 155-160, 1300-3356.

10. Vankar, S.;Shanker, R.; Dixit, S.; Mahanta, D.; Tiwari, S.C.; Sonicator Dyeing of Cotton With the Leaves Extract Acer Pectinatum Wallich, Pigment & Resin Technology, Vol(37), pp.308 – 313, 0369- 9420.

11. Fairchild, M.D.;Color Appearance Models, Addision Westley Longman, Inc., ISBN 0-201-63464-3.

12. ISO 105-C06 Standards .

13. TS 1008 EN ISO 105 – B02 Standards.