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PB42
AN EXPERIMENTAL EVALUATION ABOUT DRYING BEHAVIOR OF
SUSTAINABLE DENIM
Şehpal TÖLEK
1, Füsun DOBA KADEM
11
Çukurova University, Faculty of Engineering and Architecture, Textile Engineering,
Adana. Faculty,
stolek@cu.edu.tr
Abstract: In this study, the denim fabrics woven in 3/1 (Z) twill weave were used two types of fabrics
as virgin fabric (100% cotton) and re-cyled fabric (70%cotton-30%re-cyled cotton) with respect to drying behavior . Recycled cotton is cotton that has been manufactured by using previously used cotton items such a yarn or used cotton waste from spinning. Recycled cotton comes from post-industrial waste fiber and yarn collected from spinning and waste from landfills. Typical denim production involves dyeing, beaming, weaving and finishing as the next steps. The denim fabrics were produced with a regular process route in selected denim company. In finishing, desizing and caustification processes were applied to the denim fabrics. The drying behavior of the denim fabrics were observed and results of these observations were compared. The drying behavior of the fabrics which were experimentally investigated was determined by considering wet and dry weights. The test results indicated that the drying capability of re-cycle cotton fabric is not lower than 100%cotton denim fabric.
Keywords: Recycle denim, Drying behavior, Wet and dry weights.
1. Introduction
Denim is a kind of fabric that plays an outstanding role in the world market that is expanding in the field of sports apparel appealing to users from all ages and all walks of life. Since its first production, denim is an indispensable part of the textile industry. In a globalized world where technology is rapidly developing, the exchange of denim fabrics and the supply curve in the market are shifting towards the formation of visual diversity. Today, competition in the textile sector is at a high level in all areas. In this highly competitive environment, innovative activities and high value-added products have great prospects for protecting and developing the position of our country's textile industry. Increasing the market share of our country in the Denim market and protecting the dynamic structure of the sector depends on innovative and competitive products to be developed. [1]
In the textile and ready-to-wear sector, unavoidable wastes from wastewater, harmful chemicals, heat efficiency, etc. constitute a great environmental burden. At this point, antitrust recycling is emerging as a solution. The recycling application for this solution has also found wide application in the final product, as well as in semi-finished products and waste produced during production. During re-opening operations of the recycled fibers, the fiber length is shortened, uneven and the short fiber ratio is increased.
Recycling application can be applied by different manufacturers by different methods. But the basic principle consists of several steps starting with cutting and / or tearing of fabric or yarn residues. This is the most important part of this implementation. This is because the unfinished piece of fabric remaining in the resulting fiber bundle, unseparated yarns, etc. will affect the performance characteristics of the yarn to be re-cycled.
If the cotton and the mixture are to be made in the classical denim production, the other fibers are arranged in bales and this mixture is made. The materials which are subjected to yarn production and weaving are passed through finishing and quality control processes and become final product.
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In the re-cycle products, the waste materials that are released in all processes are broken up into fibers and the blending is calculated by calculating the desired ratio during bale arrangement in the blend-room. All other operations are similar [1].
Studies on sustainable fabrics in the literature are increasing day by day. Here are some examples of work done on drying: Aksoy and Kaplan investigated in detail fluid transfer behaviors in textile materials considering the effects of raw materials, production parameters and finishing processes. The methods used in scientific studies fort the measurement of wetting, absorbing and fluid transfer behavior at the fiber, yarn and fabric levels are summarized. So that, this study is intended to be useful for researchers who want to conduct on experimental or theoretical work [2].
The aim of Akarslan’s study is to determine the drying rate values of woven fabrics with the help of fuzzy logic modelling. For his purpose, a drying system has been prepared. The hot air entering the system was passed over the dampened fabric. And thus, convection drying was performed. This study will help to determine the machine parameters for a given product, taking into account the time and energy savings that will enable the dryer to be run on the desired conditions. [3]
Fanguerio et al. observed that wool-based fabrics exhibited low moisture absorption characteristics, but higher drying rates in their study of reviewing Fibers such as wool, Coolmax and Finecool and their knitted fabrics produced from their wool blends have vertical and horizontal capillary and drying speeds [4].
In Akal’s study, drying behavior of cotton yarn bobbins with compressed hot air was investigated experimentally and modelled as drying. Experimental work has been carried out in the textile industry by means of a test plant, which is a prototype of the machine used for drying. Coil diameter, drying air temperature and pressure are taken into consideration as drying parameters. Experimental results show that these three parameters have significant effects on institutional behavior. After the completion of the experimental work, the drying behavior is modelled. The results also show that the Diffusion Approach model from empirical and semi-empirical models is the most suitable model for describing experimental data [5].
In this study, drying times of cotton denim fabrics were determined. One of the fabrics was re-cycled and American cotton was used on both fabrics. The test results were evaluated graphically.
2. EXPERIMENTAL
In this study, denim fabrics made from 100% cotton and 70% cotton 30% re-cycle raw material were dried according to the principle of convection drying, and the drying behavior of both fabrics was evaluated with graphics. Three sub-samples were used in each denim fabric. The number of replications is 2. In Table 1, denim production process steps for both fabrics are described.
Table 1. Processes of a denim fabric [6]
Process no Process name
1 Yarn Processing Cotton Blending-Carding-Drawing Spinning 2 Yarn Dyeing-Sizing Beaming
Rope dyeing-Slasher dyeing Rebeaming
Sizing
3 Weaving Weaving machine
4 Finishing
Desizing Caustification Fixation Sanforizing
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In the experimental study, a re-cyle denim (70% co-30% re-co) and 100% cotton (100% co) denim fabrics produced by partial recycling of cotton wastes were produced in a selected denim mill. Both weft and warp yarns were produced as recycled cotton wastes (70% virgin co-30% re-co).
Table 2 shows the results of the fiber properties tested on the USTER HVI M 1000 device.
Table 2. Properties of Fibres [7]
Fiber Properties Virgin Cotton Re-cycle Cotton
SCI(SpinningCongistency Index) 125 94,8
MIC(Microner) 4,426 4.33
MAT(Maturity) 0.89 0.882
LEN(Lenght,mm) 28.446 27.808
UNF(Uniformity) 80.76 77.78
SFI(Short Fiber Index) 10.4 17.24
STR(Strength, g/tex) 31.7 25.92
ELG(Elongation, %) 6.36 7.78
MOIST(Moisture, %) 6.38 6.28
TR AREA(Trash, %) 0.246 0.03
In Table 3, the construction properties of the fabrics are described in detail.
Table 3. Properties of Fabrics [7,1]
Construction Virgin Cotton Fabric Re-Cycle Cotton Fabric
Warp Yarn(Ne) 9.86/1 9.86/1
Warp Fiber Compound 100% American Cotton 70% American Cotton,
30% Re-Cyle Cotton
Weft Yarn (Ne) 13/1 13/1
Weft Fiber Compound 100% American Cotton 70% American Cotton,
30% Re-Cyle Cotton
Weave 3/1 Z Twill 3/1 Z Twill
Warp Density (Warp/cm) 31 32
Weft Density (Weft/cm) 21 20.5
Fabric Weight (gr/m2) 335 345
The drying behavior of the fabrics were investigated in laboratory conditions. For this purpose, 3 samples were taken from each fabric and weight of the dry samples was measured. Also wet weights of the fabrics were measured too and weight of the water absorbed from the weight increase was determined. After this operations, fabrics were put in a drying oven which is 105˚C and drying behavior of the fabrics were determined by measuring the weight change in every 2 minutes for three sub-samples. This method was also used in similar studies where convection drying was experimentally performed [8].
3. Results And Discussion
In recent years, increasing demands for comfortable clothing by people have caused researchers to attach importance to comfort. The work on thermal properties is important because it is directly related to clothing comfort. Drying characteristics and behavior of virgin and re-cycle fabrics were also observed and results of these observations were shared Table 4 and 5. These results are for the first replication. Second replication results are listed in Table 6 and 7. Because the thermal measurements can easily be affected by the temperature, humidity, etc. of the measurement site, the same measurements were repeated by the same person on different days in the same laboratory conditions.
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Table 4. Drying Time Results for Virgin Cotton Fabric
S1 S2 S3 Average Weight Loss (%) S1 Average Weight Loss (%) S2 Average Weight Loss (%) S3 Dry Weight(g) 15.293 16.315 14.849 - - - Average:15.486 St.Deviation:0.614 Wet Weight(g) 15.777 16.315 15.321 - - - Average:15.799 St.Deviation:0.400 T ime ( Mi n ute ) 4 15.743 16.284 15.282 0.216 0.190 0.255 8 15.712 16.252 15.246 0.197 0.197 0.236 12 15.687 16.221 15.216 0.159 0.191 0.197 16 15.657 16.193 15.184 0.191 0.173 0.210 20 15.628 16.16 15.149 0.185 0.204 0.231 24 15.603 16.134 15.119 0.160 0.161 0.198 28 15.573 16.101 15.085 0.192 0.205 0.225 32 15.554 16.081 15.061 0.122 0.124 0.159 36 15.529 16.057 15.035 0.161 0.149 0.173
Table 5. Drying Time Results for Re-Cycle Cotton Fabric
S1’ S2’ S3’ Average Weight Loss (%) S1’ Average Weight Loss (%) S2’ Average Weight Loss (%) S3’ Dry Weight(g) 14.560 14.558 14.997 - - - Average:14.705 St. Deviation: 0.253 Wet Weight(g) 14.968 14.877 15.391 - - - Average:15.078 St. Deviation:0.274 T ime ( Mi n ute ) 4 14.937 14.85 15.361 0.207 0.181 0.195 8 14.908 14.827 15.34 0.194 0.155 0.137 12 14.871 14.798 15.315 0.248 0.196 0.163 16 14.831 14.767 15.287 0.269 0.209 0.183 20 14.808 14.744 15.263 0.155 0.156 0.157 24 14.774 14.72 15.242 0.230 0.163 0.138 28 14.743 14.695 15.216 0.210 0.170 0.171 32 14.72 14.676 15.199 0.156 0.129 0.112 36 14.694 14.652 15.174 0.177 0.164 0.164
Table 6. Drying Time Results for Virgin Cotton Fabric
S1 S2 S3 Average Weight Loss Average Weight Loss Average Weight Loss (%) S1 (%) S2 (%) S3 Dry Weight(g) 18.040 16.804 15.277 - - -
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Average: 16.707 St. Deviation: 1.384 Wet Weight(g) 18.630 16.389 15.888 - - - Average: 16.969 St. Deviation: 1.460 T ime ( Mi n ute ) 4 18.585 16.341 15.846 0.242 0.293 0.264 8 18.545 16.303 15.819 0.215 0.233 0.170 12 18.491 16.256 15.762 0.291 0.288 0.360 16 18.459 16.226 15.734 0.173 0.185 0.178 20 18.435 16.203 15.709 0.130 0.142 0.159 24 18.401 16.170 15.684 0.184 0.204 0.159 28 18.364 16.133 15.648 0.201 0.229 0.230 32 18.325 16.097 15.600 0.212 0.223 0.307 36 18.287 16.065 15.567 0.207 0.199 0.212Table 7. Drying Time Results for Re-Cycle Cotton Fabric
S1’ S2’ S3’ Average Weight Loss Average Weight Loss Average Weight Loss (%) S1’ (%) S2’ (%) S3’ Dry Weight(g) 14.89 14.873 15.337 - - - Average: 15.033 St. Deviation: 0.263 Wet Weight(g) 15.685 15.599 16.127 - - - Average: 15.803 St. Deviation: 0.283 T ime ( Mi n ute ) 4 15.629 15.531 16.077 0.357 0.436 0.310 8 15.582 15.477 16.036 0.301 0.348 0.255 12 15.525 15.419 15.984 0.366 0.375 0.324 16 15.496 15.382 15.95 0.187 0.240 0.213 20 15.463 15.351 15.918 0.213 0.202 0.201 24 15.425 15.315 15.882 0.246 0.235 0.226 28 15.387 15.264 15.841 0.246 0.333 0.258 32 15.337 15.216 15.8 0.325 0.314 0.259 36 15.284 15.158 15.74 0.346 0.381 0.380
4. Conclusions
The raw materials used in the production of textile materials have an important influence on the properties of the material, such as absorbency or liquidity. When the study results were examined; Re-cycle and virgin fabrics obtained from the result of production are dried by conventional method. During the drying process, the water absorbed by the fabrics evaporates causing mass loss. By making mass measurements at specific periods, drying graphs were obtained. When the graphics were examined, it was seen that the drying behaviors of both fabrics were similar. The results were also in line with the results of the literature studies.
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Figure 1. Relation between drying time and drying weight of Virgin and Re-cycle Cotton Fabric (First
Replication)
Figure 2. Relation between drying time and drying weight of Virgin and Re-cycle Cotton Fabric
(Second Replication)
References
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[2] Aksoy A, Kaplan S, Tekstil Materyallerinde Sıvı Transfer Mekanizmaları ve Ölçüm Yöntemleri,
Electronic Journal of Textile Technologies Vol: 5, No: 2, 2011 (51-67).
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Modellenmesi, Msc Thesis, Trakya University İnstitute Of Science And Technology
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[6] Tölek Ş, Doba Kadem F, A Research On Color Analysis And Fastness Properties Of A Denim
Fabric Dyed With An Innovative Method, 15th AUTEX World Textile Conference 2015 June10-12, 2015, Bucharest, ROMANIA.
[7] Doba Kadem F, IYTE 12th National Chemical Engineering Congress (UKMK2016), Sürdürülebilir
Bir Yaklaşım: Denim Sektöründe Pamuk Atıklarının Geri Dönüşümü Üzerine Bir Çalışma, August 2016.
[8]Karakaş O, Investigation of Some Thermal Properties of selected Warp Knitting Fabric, 1st International Mediterranean Science and Engineering Congress (IMSEC 2016), October 26-28, 2016, Adana/Turkey, pp: 1724.
![Table 1. Processes of a denim fabric [6]](https://thumb-eu.123doks.com/thumbv2/9libnet/4146925.63491/2.892.176.732.871.1116/table-processes-denim-fabric.webp)
